An always packed house testifies to a restaurant that’s firing on all cylinders. A modern but warm setting, servers who know their stuff, and exquisite bites, both raw and cooked, are what keep folks coming back. Creative takes on raw fish are the kitchen’s raison d’être (think bluefin chutoro with a dollop of fermented wasabi), but you’d be hard-pressed to find better interpretation of red meat in this town, whether the sweet-smoky sliver of Wagyu fatty belly or the “ribeye”: tender slices of melt-in-your-mouth beef with a swath of grilled-oyster mayo and a tangle of broccoli rabe.