Boot and Thai

How a Texas-born Mexican American chef brought modern, Australian-style Thai food to Austin.
Photograph by Jody Horton

At Sway, any perch at the long kitchen counter is the catbird seat. I sit here whenever I can, even though joining friends at one of the restaurant’s massive square mahogany tables has definite appeal if I’m in a party mood. But it’s a live cooking show at the counter, as one person pounds lethal-looking Thai chiles in a huge mortar, another harvests fresh basil from a wooden box, and yet another deep-fries a whole red snapper. The people-watching is great too. Out

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