The Coast Is Clear

At Spoon, John Tesar dumps the drama and lets his cooking speak for itself.
Photograph by Jody Horton

This just in: John Tesar, the famously volatile and notably talented Dallas chef, seems to have abandoned histrionics to focus on running a kitchen. This is a sad day for those of us with boring lives who were once riveted by Tesar’s verbal fisticuffs with other chefs and his well-chronicled departures from leading restaurants. On the other hand, it’s a happy day for members of the dining public, who are battening down reservations at

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