New and Noteworthy
Tillman’s Roadhouse Fort Worth and Canopy Houston
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Fort Worth Residential and commercial designer Rob Dailey has let loose his log-cabin chic on this splendiferous restaurant in the new West Seventh development. Like its predecessor in Dallas, it’s quirky as all get-out. Velvet and leather banquettes, Murano glass chandeliers, tapestry drapes, and pine plank walls offer visual treasures, while chef Dan Landsberg draws your attention to the edible treasures. Chicken-fried hanger steak was more tender than expected and came with green beans, mashed potatoes, and charred-poblano cream gravy. A huge bone-in pork chop was perched atop creamy grits and sided with an enormous pile of french-fried green beans. We did our best to finish dessert, a cast-iron skillet of pecan pie and cinnamon ice cream, all house-made. No one left hungry. Bar. 2933 Crockett (817-850-9255). Open Mon–Fri 11–11, Sat & Sun 10:30–3:30 & 5:30–11. $$ W+
Houston We’ve lost count of the restaurants that have failed in this sleek space near the museum district, but Claire Smith’s popular new venture could break the jinx. A sculptural “canopy” of wood slats hangs from the high ceiling and photomurals of live oaks adorn the room dividers. Fine starters included grilled asparagus (with wild mushrooms, shards of Parmesan, and great toasted bread) and a hefty, meaty crab cake resting on fried green tomatoes. Very good among the entrées were the rack of lamb, crusted with herbs, and the simple roasted chicken with mustardy mashed potatoes. Bar. 3939 Montrose Blvd (713-528-6848). Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2:30. Dinner Sun & Mon 5–9, Tue–Sat 5–10. Brunch Sat & Sun 9–3. Reservations recommended. $$–$$$ W+