New and Noteworthy
Tre Trattoria, San Antonio and Américas, The Woodlands
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San Antonio This location has seen many a restaurant, but not since Arthur’s has there been one so captivating. Italian ideas predominate, but Tre, the brainchild of Jason Dady, chef-owner of the Lodge and Bin 555, goes its own way in many respects. Most entrées serve two, like a marinated Tuscan ribeye and a wonderfully moist grilled swordfish with capers and tomato. More generous still are the weeknight family dinners for four (Tuesday is “wild boar ragù” night). Two appetizer lists, one of vegetables (delicate yellow beets, cannellini beans with gremolata ) and one of meats (salami, soppressata, prosciutto), permit almost unlimited combinations. Inventive thin-crust pizzas and a few pasta dishes (like a convincing linguine with clams) fill out the menu. Bar. 4003 Broadway (210-805-0333). Open Mon—Sat 11—11. Closed Sun. Call ahead to get on waiting list. $$—$$$ +
The Woodlands “Over the top” is no overstatement for the latest incarnation of this celebrated restaurant from Michael Cordúa, the chef and entrepreneur who started the pan-Latin culinary revolution in Houston two decades ago. Stairs from a swanky lounge lead down to sweeping water walls, and giant tropical-themed murals adorn the ceiling of the waterside dining room. The drama continues on the menu, with starters like plump pork ribs wrapped in bacon and glazed with tamarind and entrées like crisp-skinned roasted salmon atop avocado mousse and seared Texas redfish with smoked tomato jus and tamale gnocchi (talk about fusion!). Bar. 21 Waterway Ave (281-367-1492). Open Mon—Thur 11—10, Fri 11—11, Sat 5—11, Sun 11—9 (bar till 1:30 a.m. Thur—Sat). Reservations recommended. $$—$$$ +