New + Noteworthy

The Hay Merchant
Photograph by Debora Smail

The Hay Merchant

Houston

Its name honoring early Houston hay merchant Michael Westheimer, this Montrose temple to craft beer (75-plus on tap) was dreamed up by the guys who own Anvil Bar & Refuge. Expect a noisy crowd at this dimly lit man cave and a small, ever-changing menu. Executive chef Antoine Ware prepares home-style grub with Cajun accents: think fried chicken livers and waffles. A gloriously puffy homemade pretzel is a stellar starter, but skip its odd, watery cheese dip. Also good are the rich chicken-and-sausage gumbo, the humongous “JH” hot dog, and the Butcher’s Burger. Beer & wine. 1100 Westheimer Rd (713-528-9805). Open Mon–Fri 3 p.m.–2 a.m., Sat & Sun 11 a.m.–2 a.m. $–$$ W+

Doss Country Store

Doss

Matthew Kavin, a young chef with New York culinary cred, is turning this diminutive Central Texas spot into a dining destination. Breakfast and lunch are fine, but the weekend prix-fixe dinners leave us speechless. To wit: a salad of grilled okra and tomatoes; risotto with crab and asparagus; a buttery beef tenderloin sans any extraneous rubs or tricks; ethereal cheddar-chive biscuits; little angel food cakes with strawberries, agarita berries, and sweet cream. We’re planning to return with friends. This week. BYOB (beer available at convenience store) . 14394 Ranch Rd 783 North, near Ranch Rd 648 (830-669-2160). Open Tue–Thur 7–6, Fri & Sat 7–9, Sun 9–2. Closed Mon. $–$$ W +

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