UNDERGROUND GOURMET Troubles with your love life? Truffles could be the answer. We're speaking of the exotic fungus, a purported aphrodisiac as well as a turn-on for any epicure. Truffles grow underground in Europe (especially France and Italy) and in Oregon, and with the peak of the season each November, they are harvested with the assistance of specially trained pigs and dogs. Look for fresh truffles at these restaurants throughout the month. In Austin, Asti will feature a five-course truffle-inspired feast (fresh truffle-topped fontina risotto is being considered) during the third week of November; Vespaio gets in the act with such creations as made-to-order creamy carnaroli risotto with fresh shaved black truffles; and Jeffrey's offers truffle dinners throughout November (venison Wellington with black truffles). Dallas's Mi Piaci celebrates the season with a white-truffle risotto; York Street with soft-scrambled duck eggs with black truffles. Arcodoro & Pomodoro, in Dallas, and Arcodoro, in Houston, tempt you with dishes such as carpaccio afrodisiaco (thin-sliced beef tenderloin with buffalo mozzarella and white-truffle shavings). In Houston, Rouge's poached guinea fowl with black truffles is sure to sweep you off your feet. In San Antonio, a truffle cheese course highlights the truffle-tasting menu at Las Canarias at La Mansión del Rio Hotel, while delicate truffled poached eggs grace Le Rêve's . If anyone asks about your newfound passion, just tell them Wilbur sent you.