Forget the resorts, the swim-up bars, the umbrella drinks. If there’s any establishment that embodies the coast at its most wild and authentic, it’s the southeast Texas seafood shack. Yes, there is finer seaside cuisine to be found—local and sustainable and all that—and yes, there are worthy places to eat on the lower coast too. But nowhere will you feel like you’re getting away—to another time, to another sensibility, to another Texas—than along the stretch from Galveston to Port Arthur.