you’re hungry: the daily special at the Café Texan. Huntsville State Park, six miles southwest of Huntsville off Interstate 45 on Park Road 40. 936-295-5644. Open year-round, 8–10. $4. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables - Shade - Grilling - Camping.
15) Utopia City Park
Utopia
Two old dudes were sitting on a beat-up Dodge truck passing the time over Budweisers when I arrived at this lovely little park by the Sabinal River. “You’ve come to the best part of the best part of Texas,” one of them told me, and on a sunny afternoon, I wasn’t about to doubt him. Huge cypress trees stand like sentinels along the water, sheltering a number of camping and picnicking stations. This is one of several places along FM 187 that offer river access and riverside cabin rental or camping. If you’re hungry: panini and smoothies at Utopia Joe’s Coffee House. West of FM 187, at the intersection of Houston (FM 1050) and Cypress. 830-966-3643. Open year-round, sunrise to sunset. $5 per vehicle. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables - Shade - Rope Swing - Grilling - Camping.
16) Burger’s Lake
Fort Worth
The main attraction at this old-fashioned park, located right by the Trinity River in the northwest part of the city, is a spring-fed, one-acre pool with fountains, sandy beaches, and diving boards—in other words, family fun that Fort Worthians have been enjoying for generations. If you’re hungry: Bring a picnic. 1200 Meandering Road. 817-737-3414. Open Mother’s Day through Labor Day, 9–7 (weekends only through the end of September). $12. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables - Shade - Rope Swing - Lifeguard - Grilling.
17) The Quince
Camp Wood
A few hundred yards along River Road off of Texas Highway 55, you can pull over and park by the Nueces. No frills here, just cold, clear water deep enough to dive into—fifteen feet deep, in fact, which accounts for the local sobriquet. I spent a happy half hour at this spot—also known to locals by the less-evocative tag “the Swim Hole”—and the empty beer cans suggested I was not the first. If you’re hungry: Angus burgers or all-day breakfast at B.J.’s Café and Sweet Shop. Half a mile west of Texas Highway 55 on River Road, opposite the Rocky River Camp. Free.
18) The Slab
Kingsland
Just before the Llano River curves sharply to meet the Colorado, it tumbles through lilliputian mountains of pink granite, where you can drape yourself, Gulliver-like, over the rocks and lounge in the shallow pools. Though superb for those who just want to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature, this spot is not so good for actual swimming. So why is it eighteenth on my list? Because soaking up the sun to the sound of running water amid this much scenery is a pleasure not to be missed. Besides, the water’s deep enough to cover your belly. Be advised: Parking is extremely limited. If you’re hungry: burgers and ice cream at Storm’s. Where RR 3404 crosses the Llano River. Free. Crowded on weekends.
19) Cypress Bend Park
New Braunfels
A little more au naturel than the City Tube Chute, this convenient park gives access to the Guadalupe River where it makes one of a series of lazy curves around the eastern side of town. Gaze at the sky through the trees and you’ll feel as if you’re a long way from the center of town. If you’re hungry: the migas plate at El Nopalito. 600 Peace Avenue. 830-221-4350. Open year-round, 8–dusk. Free. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables.
20) Lake Fryer at Wolf Creek Park
Perryton
After a short time, I stopped thinking that the six flags hanging at the entrance might be some deluded attempt at false pretenses, since this roughly seven-hundred-acre county park can stand proud on its own merits as a delightfully low-key getaway with the emphasis, as usual, on fishing and camping. There are the usual picnic tables and grills. Designated swimming areas are on the north side of the lake by the concrete dam. Like many places on my list, Lake Fryer has drawn people for thousands of years, from the Indians who built villages along the creek to the local families who have gathered here since the land was settled. If you find yourself up in the Panhandle, Lake Fryer is well worth a visit. If you’re hungry: burgers at the Lobo Restaurant. Six miles east of U.S. 83 on County Road U. 806-435-4559. Open year-round, sunrise to midnight. Free. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables - Shade - Rope Swing - Grilling - Camping.
21) Rio Vista Park
San Marcos
The San Marcos River bubbles up through the springs at Aquarena Center and heads south right through town on its way to the Guadalupe. The water (a constant 72 degrees) is perfect for swimming and tubing, and it’s also a popular destination for snorkelers and scuba divers. Renting tubes upstream at City Park and floating down to the tube chute at the Rio Vista Falls is a good choice. If you’re hungry: Bobcat cheese fries at the River Pub and Grill. 555 Cheatham. 512-393-8400. Open year-round, 6–11. Free. Crowded on weekends - Picnic Tables - Shade - Rope Swing - Grilling.
22) Hunt Crossing
Hunt
Ah, the Guadalupe River . . . the only difficulty is getting into it. Its beauty and proximity to San Antonio and Austin mean that those who have river access guard it jealously (and often charge for it). The path of least resistance is to join the armies of tubers that jam the river below Canyon Lake, but generally I prefer the waters above the reservoir. For a classic park-and-dip experience I recommend pulling over at Hunt Crossing, where the sound of splashing and laughter will quickly make you forget the din of cars zipping over the bridge. (Other spots nearby: Kerrville-Schreiner Park and Louise Hays Park, in Kerrville; Ingram Dam, Johnson Creek bridge, and Schumacher Crossing, all along Texas Highway 39