Sweetbreads are a rarity at most restaurants, but executive chef Raymond Tatum has made the rich organ meat his signature dish at Austin’s talked-about 612 West (612 W. Sixth). “People tell me that I make the best sweetbreads,” Tatum says. “And personally I really like them. It’s only human instinct to keep doing something you do well.” Tatum created this popular meal as the chef at Jeffrey’s, another cutting-edge Austin restaurant, nearly six years ago. The challenge of the recipe is in the timing: Both the meat and the accompanying golden corn cakes, topped with the incendiary chipotle-sage sauce, must be served hot off the stove. Your effort will be rewarded with a savory and eminently satisfying slow burn.