State Fare

Jeffrey’s, 1204 West Lynn, Austin

Austin’s beau monde has had a serious crush on Jeffrey’s (1204 West Lynn, Austin) ever since the intimate, unpretentious restaurant opened in 1975. This standard-setting establishment takes a maverick approach to gourmet dining: Executive chef Raymond Tatum, a self-taught cook with a rebel streak, specializes in improvising provocative Southwestern fare from classic French recipes.

The tortilla-wrapped fish, created by sous-chef Kevin Tubb (who is also self-taught), is an incendiary match of a French lemon-butter sauce and assertive Mexican-style purées, an astute pairing that could set the world on fire. An incendiary match of a French lemon-butter sauce and assertive Mexican-style purées.

Recipe for Tortilla-Wrapped Fish from Jeffrey’s, Austin.

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