Only in East Texas could Nashville’s next big thing play second fiddle to a sweet potato. “These are the real stars around here,” says Kacey Musgraves, handing me amama Golden sweet potato from a small wooden barrel. On this October weekend, Musgraves is in Golden for the thirtieth annual Sweet Potato Festival: two days of livestock shows, children’s pageants, and mutton bustin’ that lead up to the main event, a sweet potato auction. This year, there was live music too. And while Musgraves would never, ever say it, she’s slumming a little this weekend: playing a private party in conjunction with a sweet potato festival is an odd way to wrap a year that saw her share bills with Willie Nelson and Lady Antebellum.
Then again, to Musgraves, Golden—quietly nestled between Dallas and Tyler—is home. These days, she lives in Nashville, but she grew up here. Like the rest of the town, she freaked out a little when Oprah Winfrey held up a Golden sweet potato on her 2004 “Best of Everything” show, forever putting Golden on the map. This is where she played concerts as a 9-year-old, yodeling the oldies in fringy Western wear that would’ve made the 1.0 version of the Dixie Chicks proud. She’s 24 now, but not thirty feet from the barrel of sweet potatoes we’re admiring is the kind of stage she might have played way back when: a flatbed trailer decorated with Christmas lights and hay bales. This is where Musgraves will perform, marking her first time back to town since her debut single, “Merry Go ’Round,” started pushing into the top tier of the Billboard country charts. Musgraves’s mother booked this homecoming gig to celebrate the opening of her new art gallery. Saying no to Mom wasn’t an option.
“It’s very kitschy, but it’s also kind of great,” says Musgraves, who will play considerably larger stages in March, when she’ll open a series of shows for Kenny Chesney. “Coming home, you realize people are starved for live music. So it’d be lousy to come back and act like I’m tired of it. This is everything Nashville isn’t, in all the right ways.”
Exactly what Nashville is or isn’t has never seemed more up in the air than it does today. Is the town’s future full of glitzy vocal groups like the Band Perry or ballsy beer hustlers like Eric Church? At the 2012 Country Music Awards, Taylor Swift went home empty-handed, yet a few weeks later her new album—which leans more pop than country—notched the highest first-week U.S. sales figures of any album in a decade. Which is where Musgraves, who signed to Universal Nashville last year, might come in. Conventional wisdom on Music Row suggests there’s a generation of young female country fans who aren’t willing to transition with Swift to the pop realm. Right now Miranda Lambert, who grew up in Lindale, just twenty miles southeast of Golden, is the emblem of this movement, stacking six feet of authenticity and palpable danger into a five-foot-four-inch frame.
Early feedback from radio programmers indicates Musgraves’s “Merry Go ’Round” is laying the groundwork for a similar trajectory. “As poetic and potent as any song released in 2012,” said Rolling Stone. “An instant classic.” The poetic part hinges on the chorus’s stop-you-in-your-tracks triplet: “Mama’s hooked on Mary Kay / Brother’s hooked on Mary Jane / Daddy’s hooked on Mary, two doors down.” The potency comes from bleak assertions like “If you ain’t got two kids by twenty-one, you’re probably gonna die alone.” Don’t look for “Merry Go ’Round” to be the sound track to a Wood County tourism video anytime soon.
“My favorite kind of songs are clever without sounding like they’re supposed to be clever,” says Musgraves, who counts John Prine and Ray Wylie Hubbard as songwriting heroes. “Especially if they sound traditional but