Adventure travel makes you sweat. Adventure travel through Central America can even hurt a little. Venturing to the coastal village of Montezuma, a tropical Eden hidden on the southern tip of Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, might even hurt so good you end up asking your traveling companion to marry you.
Five years ago Montezuma consisted mostly of pot-smoking backpackers and Ticos (what anyone who has been in Costa Rica for more than an hour knows to call its citizens). Six years ago the little fishing village didn’t even have electricity. One guidebook compares Montezuma’s steamy, laid-back atmosphere with that of the Greek Islands or Bali, circa 1970. (If you’ve wandered through southern Mexico, Montezuma may remind you of a slightly more elegant version of Zipolite, the hippie resort on the Pacific coast of Oaxaca.) Enticed by Montezuma’s rustic refinement and the stunning beauty of its beaches, more folks are now taking the trouble to go. The result: A room with no hot water or air conditioning might be booked weeks in advance.
With its eco-friendly and robustly bohemian atmosphere, Montezuma is pretty much an adventure traveler’s paradise. There’s no TV. The dominant smells