Something in the Waters

Jon Bonnell’s long-awaited seafood venture reveals why the chef is so beloved in his hometown.
Photograph by Jody Horton

The handle on the door is a bronze octopus tentacle. A silvery metal shark’s fin hovers over a plate-glass window on the facade. The whimsy continues as you walk into the contemporary building’s soaring interior, where oyster shells fill several wire columns, sculptures of sharks’ jaws adorn one wall, and glittering metal strips float overhead like a school of minnows. You get only one guess at the following question: What type of food does this restaurant serve?

Open since the end of March, Waters is the biggest fish to surface so far in Fort Worth’s lively West 7th development. If you’re from out of town, you will be forgiven for not knowing that until recently, the whole area just east of the museum district was a no-man’s-land famous for scruffy, well-loved places like Fred’s Texas Cafe (“Great Food & Cold Ass Beer”). But a rapid explosion of dining, drinking, and entertainment destinations in the past couple of years has changed all that. On any given night,

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