Once Upon a Time, “Southwestern Cuisine” Was a Movement
A writer remembers how a chance conversation at a food festival led to her classic 2014 oral history on Southwestern cuisine.
A writer remembers how a chance conversation at a food festival led to her classic 2014 oral history on Southwestern cuisine.
Amy Ferguson, who has lived in Hawaii for decades now but was instrumental in the development of the Southwestern cuisine culinary movement, talks about reading "Larousse Gastronomique" as a kid, encountering celebrity at a young age, and that time Julia Child kindly told her "you don't know anything."
Including Robert Del Grande, Stephan Pyles, and Jeff Blank.
Thirty years ago, Texans who equated fine dining with chicken cordon bleu and trout meunière suddenly found themselves eating barbecued Gulf shrimp and goat cheese quesadillas. An oral history of the Southwestern cuisine revolution.
“People are fascinated with intricate, exotic preparations, but they love comfort food. What we’re doing is giving homey, Texas food a kick and serving it in our Mansion style.”
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“In the past few years I have tried to simplify what we do and not trump it up too much. I’ve never strained the sauces—I leave bits of chile in there to give a more rustic look.”
“When people ask what we served in my family’s cafe, I say ‘tacos, enchiladas, and tamales.’ When they ask what I serve today, I say ‘tacos, enchiladas, and tamales.’ ”
How to cook up a culinary craze: Mix talented chefs, native ingredients, classical techniques, and good publicity. Name result “Southwestern.” Let spread across globe.
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