Longtime chef-restaurauteur Bruce Molzan is hoping to breathe life into the old, often shuttered Brownstone complex. Private-party venues augment the smallish dining area, whose menu offers burgers, pizzas, and even “paleo” dishes, as in the unprocessed foods “our ancestors would have eaten.” We doubt they would have recognized the Paleo Buffalo Wings, and neither did our table’s one-time resident of that fair city.
Several hits and a few misses marked our visit to this pretty inner Westheimer spot presided over by chef Chandler Rothbard. The mantra is “Local, organic, green,” which translates to dishes like raw beet “ravioli,” thinly sliced and layered with cashew crème and tarragon, and fire-roasted oyster and cremini mushrooms served on a stone with a smoking piece of wood. The bone-in pork chop and the braised veal mac and cheese, rich and creamy with white cheddar, fontina, and goat cheese, were both terrific.
We’ve had a few “best pizza ever” moments: Rome, Naples, Chicago, and now, west Houston. The pizzaiolo here turns out seriously good pie, like a white pizza with garlic, cremini mushrooms, Boursin, and house-made mozzarella. We gushed over the Calabrese, with spicy soppressata and basil on a thin crust with a slight char and that delicate crunch that opens to soft, chewy goodness. You can carry out your pizza (no phone orders), but the pizza is primo right after its 90 seconds in the wood-fired brick oven.
With a neighborly feel appropriate to its Bellaire locale, this cozy gem features a menu of elegant Spanish and French bites. We did a bit of fork-fighting over our appetizers: grilled octopus bites with patatas in a fruity olive oil and pimentón and a seafood salad of calamari, crab, and shrimp aside arugula and charred tomatoes.
Chef-owner Robert Del Grande knows his way around a kitchen. Some of his dishes, updated here and there, hark back to the original Cafe Annie, like the black bean terrine: a colorful mix of beans, tomato, goat cheese, and avocado, it seems to have gotten lighter and fresher through the years. The chilled soups are stellar, like a sweet corn concoction with cotija cheese and smoked chile and a pea soup with pea greens, crème fraîche, and mint.
While politicians in Washington argue about limiting access to guns, whether through universal background checks or restricting the availability of assault-style weapons, one Texas group has a mission to do something quite the opposite: giving away free guns to the poor.
Weeks after his James Beard Best Chef: Southwest nomination, Underbelly chef Chris Shepherd has yet another accolade to add to his long list of recognitions. The Houston chef has been nominated as one of the ten “Best New Chefs in America” by Food & Wine magazine.
Aquiles Chaves, Mexico’s Anthony Bourdain, woos Houstonians with his contemporary Mexican seafood in an arrestingly colorful cottage setting (which is not enhanced by hard wooden furniture). We grazed our way through crunchy mini-tostadas (topped with yellowfin tuna, avocado, and frizzles of fried leeks), which outdid an entrée of red snapper pibil-style atop mashed sweet potatoes. Expect culinary surprises and upscale prices.
When our inner carnivore calls, we head to this acclaimed nose-to-tail eatery, in a cozy old bungalow. We cleaned our plate of succulent braised pork cheeks, perfect with buttery potatoes. Somewhat lighter was a perfect chicken en papillotte with fennel, red potatoes, and sweet peppers.
Bryce Gilmore, of Barley Swine, in Austin, and Chris Shepherd, of Underbelly in Houston, were among the eight Texas chefs, writers, and restaurants nominated for a James Beard Award, the highest honor given in the food world. Garden and Gun magazine recently caught up with the two chefs to ask them how they celebrated the news: