Walking into Frederick's makes us feel like insiders—maybe it's the around-the-corner entrance; the dim, cool interior; the glitzy little bar. Mostly it's that we can get sublime food, showcasing the best of French technique and Asian flavors (both elements of chef Frederick Costa's heritage, shared here in the kitchen with his brother Michel). We never stray far from seafood, always fresh and delicately sauced, as with a recent flounder with Thai curry and coconut milk beurre blanc.

Big Ranch, Big City

The task of writing a culinary memoir troubles even the most talented chefs and writers. The venture proved especially difficult for Louis Lambert, who shied away from the endeavor for years, because he never knew what version of his story he wanted to tell. Would he talk about the childhood memories of his West Texas family and their legacy of cattle ranching, or would he reflect upon years of cooking in the confines of his professional and personal kitchens?


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