El Berrinche

Anvil is the grande dame of the Houston cocktail scene. Indeed, it’s one of the most influential bars on the Gulf Coast, a veritable Ellis Island for talented bartenders who pass through its doors on their way to establishing their own cocktail programs around the country. 

Strip Tease

It was the oxtail that convinced me. I was at Oso Food & Wine not long after it opened, wondering why I found myself so surprised at the restaurant’s accomplished menu. I had known full well that its chef and proprietor had lengthy and distinguished careers in the Dallas area. And yet—and yet—I hadn’t really believed that the place would pan out. Why did I doubt? Easy: Nine times out of ten, shopping center restaurants are boring and timid. And Oso was certainly in a shopping center.

Chicken-Fried Steak

You could serve up a fried cow pie for all most folks know of a decent chicken-fried steak. Or maybe they’ve just forgotten what a good one tastes like. Beaten, floured, and bathed in hot fat, the thin round of usually subpar beef is a Texas treasure, a miracle of ingenuity that some think evolved from schnitzel-loving German immigrants and others from scrappy chuck-wagon cooks struggling to address the comestible shortcomings of trail-weary Longhorns.


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