May 2008 dining in…

Galveston | Rockport | South Padre Island

Restaurant reviews from our editors.

Galveston

 New  ABE’S CAJUN MARKET Cases of deli offerings, ready-to-cook sausages, and marinated steaks line the far side of the spacious, no-frills room, where we dipped into an oversized bowl of delectable chicken and sausage gumbo. Our friend passed up the assortment of poorboys and muffalettas in favor of Abe’s Cajun Burger, a third pound of well-done but still juicy beef with all the trimmings. Beer & wine. 1080 Clear Lake City Blvd, Clear Lake (281-480-2237). Open Sun 11–9, Mon–Thur 8–9, Fri 8–10, Sat 9–10. $ [map] +

 Update  APACHE MEXICAN CUISINE When other restaurants near the Grand 1894 Opera House are packed, this cheery family-run place tucked around the corner can offer tables and tranquility. We’re fondest of the enchiladas Veronica—chicken bathed in tomatillo sauce and Mexican queso blanco—but our friend’s spinach quesadilla with chicken made a tasty option. Beer & wine. 511 20th (409-765-5646). Open Mon–Thur 7–4, Fri & Sat 7–9, Sun 7–2. $-$$ [map]

 New  BAILEY’S AMERICAN GRILLE This latest entry in the NASA-area fine-dining scene impressed us with its fresh approach to American cuisine. While some savored the planked salmon with its smoky-sweet crust, another praised the seafood pasta pecorino, a medley of oyster mushrooms, shrimp, and crab in a silky pecorino cheese sauce. However, chicken Pinot Grigio won the prize: moist, tender, and bathed in a subtle herb-flecked wine sauce. What the service lacked in polish it made up in good cheer. Bar. 2320 NASA Pkwy, Seabrook (281-291-9100). Open Sun 11–9, Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11. $$$ +

 New  CAFE MADRID When weekend crowds slow down the kitchen here at the island’s first tapas bar, an upbeat, cool jazz combo keeps the time moving at a pleasant pace. Locals and weekend regulars usually table-hop happily while awaiting their orders. Of many choices, the garlicky dishes—mussels, shrimp, mushrooms—shine brightest. Bar. 2111 Postoffice (409-765-8272). Open Wed–Sat 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Closed Sun–Tue. $$ [map] +

 Update  CAPTAIN’S TABLE On mild evenings, the open-air thatched palapa bar, with its beach view and live weekend music, becomes a friendly local hangout. And when the wind turns raw, we head indoors, where the old-fashioned salad bar complete with chilled plates provides us with a bounty of deftly prepared seafood. Our friend gave her vote to the snapper drizzled with lemon-butter, while we all but immersed ourselves in the shrimp Wilhelm, butterflied and broiled in a zesty tomato and garlic sauce. Bar. 11126 FM 3005 (409-744-0881). Open 7 days 4-10. $$ [map]

CHICO’S PARADISE Within walking distance of the university, this self-styled “bar and grill and bar” attracts a lively young crowd. Happily, the Tex-Mex and burgers are as zesty as the ambience. Our surprisingly light chile relleno con pollo and our companion’s generous soft chicken tacos came with what may be the island’s best refried beans—roughly mashed, not blended. Bar. Piazza Blanca center, 500 Seawall Blvd (409-750-8973). Open 7 days 11–11. $$ [map] +

 Update  CLARY’S Though the view of the sunset over the bay may prompt you to hum “Blue Bayou,” you can leave the romantic accompaniment to the live classical guitarist who appears weekends. Our companion pronounced the soft-shelled crabs transcendent, while we sighed over our succulent Saralyn B. Platter—grilled shrimp and oysters and lump crab au gratin. Ethereal bread pudding brought the evening to a sweet conclusion. Bar. 8509 Teichman Rd (409-740-0771). Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30–2:30. Dinner Tue–Fri 5:30-10, Sat 4–10, Sun noon–9. Closed Mon. $$ [map]

 Update  CYRUS PERSIAN GRILL A warm family atmosphere, occasionally spiked with belly dancers or a Persian band, balances the exotic but accessible cuisine. Juicy kebabs, including barg (marinated beef filet), are crowd-pleasers. We were fondest of the ghormeh sabzi—a savory stew of beef, kidney beans, dried limes, and lots of fresh herbs. Beer & wine. 911 NASA Rd One (281-280-8200). Open Sun–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. $$ [map] +

 New  DON PICO'S Brightly hued fabric parrots hang from the ceiling, setting a festive mood. The pechuga al Jarlene, a boneless chicken breast, was remarkably juicy, while fresh herbs and veggies lent zing to our fajita chalupas. Beer, wine, & margaritas. 2110 Bay Area Blvd (281-280-8081). Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. Closed Sun. $ [map] +

 New  EATCETERA At this hip understated cafe, muted rose and chartreuse walls provide the perfect canvas for the contemporary artwork from the gallery next door. The applewood-smoked ham, gruyère, and asparagus panini intermingled textures admirably, as did our companion’s mesquite-smoked turkey sandwich with chipotle cream. Portions are just right, so we found ourselves indulging in the Tortuga Caribbean Rum Cake, imported from Grand Cayman. Beer & wine. 408 25th (409-762-0803). Open Tue–Sun 11–7. $-$$ [map]

 Update  FULLEN’S WATERWALL Named for the cascade that transforms the patio into a refreshing oasis for the weary, this Strand standby has expanded to serve Tex-Mex selections, buffalo wings, and grilled-chicken salad. But it's still the burgers (eight versions featuring beef, plus chicken and pork) that we come for, and our favorite remains the Angus cheeseburger, reliably juicy and deliciously messy. Beer & wine. 2110 Strand (409-765-6787). Open Mon–Fri 11–5, Sat 11–10, Sun 11–7. $ [map] +

GAIDO’S Servers in bright fish-patterned vests served classic Gulf Coast seafood while we looked out on Galveston Bay. One companion lunched contentedly on a deep, dark shrimp gumbo, while another praised the moist grilled mahi-mahi. We felt almost virtuous downing light, perfectly fried shrimp flanked by crisp broccoli with a whisper of butter. A subtle chocolate mousse made for a silky finish. Bar. 3900 Seawall Blvd (409-762-9625). Open Sun–Thur 11:45–9:30, Fri & Sat 11:45–10:30. $$—$$$ [map] +

 Update  GORDITA’S MEXICO Late hours, fresh ingredients, and authentic Mexican recipes make this a favorite of beachgoers and locals alike. Our huarache al pastor—a fluffy, plate-eclipsing flour tortilla topped with marinated pork, beans, cheese, and sour cream—made an ample lunch for us, while enchiladas filled with juicy chicken satisfied our dining buddy. Beer & margaritas. 712 Seawall Blvd (409-621-1944). Open 7 days 7 a.m.–2 a.m. Cash Only. $ [map]

GUS' With old license plates and signs livening up the chip-board paneling, a big-haired waitress brought us a sturdy margarita as a prelude to our succulent, deftly seared filet mignon wrapped in bacon. A huge, oven-baked potato that was big enough for sharing packed plenty of flavor. Cinnamon-spiked chocolate sheet cake ended the meal on a sweet and homey note. Our only disap-pointment: This time we didn’t spot Astros ace Brandon Backe, a regular. Bar. 909 11th Ave N, Texas City (409-948-8112). Open Mon–Thur 10–2 & 4–9, Fri 10–2 & 4–10, Sat 11–10. Closed Sun. $$ [map] +

 Update  HAPPY BUDDHA Fresh ingredients, warm ambience, and stupendous portions make this a local favorite. The hot-and-sour soup and ribs bathed in a citrusy sauce are hits, while the moo goo gai pan and the Mongolian beef offer successful executions of those classic dishes. Bar. 2827 61st (409-744-5774). Open Mon-Thur 11-9:45, Fri 11-10:30, Sat 11:30-10:30, Sun 11:30-9:45. $$ [map] +

 Update  HUNAN STAR When rocket scientists crave down-to-earth Chinese dishes, they head to this simple NASA-area storefront. Nurturing service enhances the comfort food effect of the subtle sauces and the crisp-fresh vegetables. The pickled cabbage appetizer started our engine, while lemon chicken, moo goo gai pan, and mixed Chinese vegetables made for a smooth landing. Beer. 2453 Bay Area Blvd (281-480-1828). Open 7 days 11–10. $-$$ [map] +

 Update  LA ESTACION City hall regulars rub shoulders with blue-collar workers and family groups at this bustling bastion of Tex-Mex. Our beef fajita tacos came wrapped in burrito-size flour tortillas and with loads of spicy pico de gallo alongside, while our friend’s equally enormous chicken tostada threatened to overrun its plate. We got a midday boost as much from the smiling staff as from the fresh, snappy salsa. Beer. 2428 Ball (409-762-4262). Open 7 days 6 a.m.–3 p.m. $ [map] +

 Update  LA KING’S CONFECTIONERY At this 1920’s soda fountain and candy factory, the bold go for the King Split—upping the ante on the already daunting traditional version by topping the bananas with three 5-ounce scoops of made-on-the-premises ice cream (the latter churned out in both familiar and exotic flavors). Yet we’re always content with a classic, not-too-sweet chocolate soda with vanilla ice cream or an old-fashioned cone of “coffee flake” (coffee ice cream with dark chocolate flakes) or cinnamon. Java fiends can find their fix with a latte or one of a myriad of frozen coffee or tea concoctions. 2323 Strand (409-762-6100). Open Sun–Thur 10–9, Fri & Sat 10–10. $ [map] +

 Update  LA MIXTECA RESTAURANT AND SEAFOOD Cheerful yellow oilcloth tablecloths speak to the authentic atmosphere, while the kitchen turns out deft variations on classic Mexican recipes. Our friend came up with his own balanced lunch of saffron-spiked Spanish rice, borracho beans with slivers of smoky bacon, and slightly chunky, fresh guacamole: all three winners. The crunchy and crisp pair of tostadas—one topped with tender chicken fajitas, the other with juicy beef—left us happily sated. Beer & wine. 1818 Mechanic (409-762-2235). Open 7 days 7–2:30. $ [map]

 Update  LUIGI’S With Pavarotti singing in the background, even a weekday lunch is a special occasion amid these Tuscan-rose walls. Our courtly, though not stuffy, waiter started us off with salads of crisp mixed greens in a pleasantly piquant vinaigrette. A delicate tomato cream sauce lent its smooth flavor to both the portobello-stuffed ravioli and the penne rustica–a hearty toss of sausage, spinach, mozzarella, and crunchy half-moons of fried zucchini. Bar. 2328 Strand (409-763-6500). Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2:30. Dinner Mon–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun. $$—$$$ [map] +

 Update  MARIO’S SEAWALL ITALIAN RESTAURANT Bright murals of festive feasters create a cheerful counterpoint to the view of the beach and the Gulf beyond. The noon buffet exceeds expectations by offering not only some of the island’s best pizza but also a full salad bar, penne in Alfredo sauce, chicken Florentine, and other standard Italian (and some American) entrées. Alas, the delectably fiery shrimp diablo is available only from the menu, not the buffet. Bar. 628 Seawall Blvd (409-763-1693). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$ [map] +

 Update  MARKET ON AVENUE L Carriage-trade caterer Jim Manning has transformed a vintage 1878 corner grocery into a food-lover’s mecca. Locals flock here for the ever-changing menu of take-out and dine-in specialties, as well as gourmet ingredients like pumpkin seed oil and organic baby eggplants. We were transported by butternut squash soup and a salad of kale and roasted beets plus pine nuts, feta, and golden raisins. 1528 Ave L (409-621-1100). Open 7 days 10–8. $$ [map] +

MERCHANT PRINCE Tucked inside an historic hotel, this warmly elegant restaurant is the island’s best-kept secret for a quiet lunch. The kitchen turns out such gems as crawfish bisque with chive-kimchi wontons, wild mushroom soup, fresh-spinach tagliatelle with duck confit. Bar. Tremont House Hotel, 2300 Ships Mechanic Row (409-763-0300). Breakfast Mon-Sat 6:30–11, Sun 6:30-2. Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2. Dinner Sun-Fri 5:30-10, Sat 5:30–10. $$ [map] +

 Update  MOGUL Silky sauces like korma (a blend of cashews, yogurt, and spices) and shaan (yogurt with masala spices) set this NASA-area Indian restaurant apart. We split generous orders of tender tandoori chicken, well-seasoned shrimp biryani, and beans foogath (green beans luxuriantly sautéed with coconut). Sides of warm naan and cool raita (with cucumber and carrot) extended the meal’s abundance. Bar. 2416 Bay Area Blvd (281-480-3097). Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2, Sat & Sun noon–3. Dinner Mon–Sat 5–10. $$ [map] +

 Update  MOSQUITO CAFE A shaded patio beckons us to enjoy healthy-made-delicious favorites alfresco. On one visit, bow-tie pasta tossed with a generous amount of spinach and grilled chicken dispelled the day’s peckishness. On another, we applauded the Napa salad—greens with chicken, Granny Smith apple slices, walnuts, and a dressing with more than a hint of horseradish, while our companion savored the chilled Thai chicken salad with peanut-dressed noodles. After such a gold-star meal, who could fault us for sharing a chewy oatmeal-raisin cookie? Beer & wine. 628 14th (409-763-1010). Open Mon–Wed 7:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Thur & Fri 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat 8–9, Sun 8–3. $-$$ [map] +

 Update  OLYMPIA GRILL On weekend evenings, tables of happy locals fill the dining room and sound bounces off the high ceilings. We always wonder why some people order the unremarkable mainstream grilled shrimp, chicken, and fish dishes when the Greek food is so varied and tasty. We favor the lamb shank stewed with oregano, garlic, tomato, and fresh lemon and the mixed appetizer plate, mislabeled as serving two—four is more like it. 4908 Seawall Blvd (409-766-1222). Open Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun 11–8. $$ [map] +

ORIGINAL MEXICAN CAFE Fresh ingredients and the lack of lard in the kitchen, not to mention the lively green and mango painted walls in the dining room, make this lunch spot a favorite of the university crowd. Our companion enjoyed mild but flavorful shrimp diablo, while we savored the good-all-year summer plate—crunchy chalupa, crisp beef taco, puffed tortilla bathed in queso, and a scoop of guacamole with discernible bits of avo-cado. Bar. 1401 Market (409-762-6001). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri 11-10, Sat 8-10, Sun 8-9. $ [map]

PALM’S M&M We don’t know whether we were more enchanted by the attentive service or the inventive cuisine at this erstwhile neighborhood bar. A crisp Caesar salad prepared us for plump clams on fet-tuccine and linguine crowned with mussels in pomodoro sauce. We shared what may be Galveston’s most inventive dessert: five tiny pots of crème brûlée, one each of vanilla bean, Irish cream, chocolate, cappuccino, and fresh mint. Bar. 2401 Church (409-766-7170). Lunch Wed–Fri 11–2. Dinner Wed–Sat 5–10, Sun 5–9. Closed Mon & Tue. $$-$$$ [map] +

 New  PERRY’S ITALIAN GRILLE The heavenly sourdough bread should have prepared us for what followed–possibly the best shrimp scampi in the Houston area, maybe even in Texas. We sighed with contentment as we pulled the pink crustaceans, tails and all, from their shells and gave them a generous sopping in the white wine and garlic sauce. Our friend’s chicken breast Perry (topped with goat cheese and tomatoes) also left a positive impression. Bar. 1001 Pineloch Dr, Clear Lake (281-488-2626). Open Mon—Thur 11—9, Fri 11—10, Sat 4—10. Closed Sun. $$ [map] +

PERRY’S STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE Special occasion or not, the NASA crowd packs this ambitious but casual mecca for meat. Our tender lamb chops came flanked with out-of-this-world garlic mashed potatoes, and our compan-ion’s New York strip steak was ably seasoned. (One caveat: Order steak a step cooler than usual.) Generously drizzled with berry coulis, the cheesecake won our applause. Bar. 487 Bay Area Blvd (281-286-8800). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat noon-10, Sun 11-9. $$$ [map] +

 New  PHO 18 We’d been eagerly awaiting the opening of this Vietnamese storefront (there aren’t many Asian restaurants on the Island), and it’s just what we’d hoped for. We dug gleefully into the bun bo nuong (charcoal-broiled beef with rice vermicelli and crisp vegetables) and the house special, a well-seasoned noodle soup with steak, brisket, meatballs, and tripe, both as good as they were simple. 704 Holiday Dr (409-762-8849). Open Mon–Sat 10–9. Closed Sun. $ Cash only [map] +

 Update  PHO 20 Fans of Asian cuisine flock to this family-run storefront where Vietnamese music videos play with closed captions. We favor the noodle bowls with char-grilled beef, pork, shrimp, or chicken, but Chinese specialties like shrimp and scallops with snow peas are reliable picks as well. 3728 Broadway (409-750-9200). Open Mon–Sat 11–9. Closed Sun. $-$$ [map] +

 Update  PIC’S ON 45TH From the tablecloths and tiled floor to the servers’ uniforms, a black and white theme lends sophistication to this bistro’s congenial atmosphere. At lunch, salads, sandwiches, and appetizers like crab cakes and shrimp quesadillas rule. We dug into what may be our island’s best, and certainly most generous, Cobb salad, while our friend enjoyed the lump blue crab in the roasted-onion bisque. Bar. 1728 45th (409-763-0200). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–2. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–9, Fri & Sat 5:30–10. Brunch Sun 10–2. Closed Mon. $$ [map] +

 Update  RED SNAPPER INN It doesn’t take much to get us to the foot of the Freeport Bridge, where we enjoy deftly cooked seafood and whimsical fishnet-and-surfboard decor at this family-friendly fave. A crab dressing adorned a cooked-to-the-second stuffed flounder, while grilled jumbo shrimp profited from a savory sauce of pulverized onions, olive oil, and garlic. Beer & wine. 402 Blue Water Highway, Surfside Beach (979-239-3226). Open Mon–Fri 11–2 & 5–9, Sat & Sun 11–9. Cash Only. $$ [map] +

 Update  RUDY AND PACO’S While keeping a watchful eye on kitchen and service, owner Paco Vargas greets regulars with enthusiastic Latin abrazos. We dug into a perfectly medium-rare salmon steak topped with a sweet, slightly peppery chipotle sauce, while friends enjoyed a macho steak, cheese, and mushroom sandwich and fried shrimp on a French roll, each with a heaping side of fries. Bar. 2028 Post Office (409-762-3696). Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner Mon–Thur 5–9, Fri & Sat 5–10. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ [map] +

 Update  SALTWATER GRILL This lively gathering place across from the opera house charms patrons with its warm service—and the best sourdough bread on the island. But it’s the inventive seafood dishes that continue to win over fans. As our friend savored succulent bacon-wrapped scallops over al dente linguine, we marveled at the shrimp scampi, so perfectly cooked that the tails slid right out of their shells. The fact that some of the seafood is imported from cooler waters adds non-local variety to the Saltwater experience. Bar. 2017 Post Office (409-762-3474). Lunch Mon–Fri 11–2. Dinner Sun–Thur 5–9, Fri & Sat 5–11. $$ [map] +

 Update  SCHUTTE’S CORNER When the group can’t decide among Asian, Tex-Mex, and home cooking, this university hangout is the place to head. On our last visit, we lunched on a generous bowl of well-seasoned pho while one friend munched on savory chicken lettuce wraps and another filled up on one of the Poor and Hungry plates: grilled tilapia, black-eyed peas, and a cup of chicken and dumplings. A little bit of everything made for a lot of well-fed and happy folks. 801 Postoffice (409-763-8111). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Closed Sat & Sun. $ [map]

 New  SEASIDE BISTRO Tucked unassumingly next to a convenience store, this authentic European outpost could pass for a neighborhood spot in Strasbourg or Prague. On one visit, a sprightly mushroom sauce with a peppery kick adorned tender pork Jägerschnitzel and Spätzle. On another, goulash with an extra dash of paprika led the way to a seafood crêpe packed with enough shrimp, scallops, and crab to overrun the plate. Beer & wine. 11128 FM 3005 (409-744-1447). Mon–Thur 11–9, Fri 11–10, Sat 9–10, Sun 9–9. $—$$ [map] +

 Update  SMOOTH TONY’S The blender stays busy whipping up satiny mango smoothies, but the entire kitchen works hard to make the rest of the menu a success at this converted Victorian house half a block from the UT Medical Branch. The chicken wrap bulging with vegetables fed two of us, while the pulled-pork sandwich delivered a sweet-spicy chipotle chile punch. Beer & wine. 415 9th (409-765-5200). Open Mon—Fri 10—3. Closed Sat & Sun. $ [map]

SPECULOOS Ethereal beignets, elaborate chocolates, crisp Belgian spice cookies, and a flower-trimmed patio draw foot-weary Strand shoppers to this engaging and casual cafe. Though Speculoos is best known for its heavenly sweets, the waffles, salads, sandwiches, and lunch entrées stand on their own. We were also taken by the savory pastie, a buttery puffed crust stuffed with seasoned beef. Beer & wine. 216 23rd (409-770-9337). Open Wed-Mon 7-3. Closed Tue. $–$$ [map] +

 New  STAR DRUG STORE The wrap-around marble counter and glass medicine cases set the retro mood as patrons dig into pimiento cheese sandwiches, fluffy pancakes, brown cows, and other fifties fountain faves. On the other hand, our agreeably chunky basil soup was totally twenty-first century. 510 Tremont (409-766-7719). Open Mon–Sat 8–4, Sun 11–5. $ [map] +

 New  STARFIRE GRILL NASA-area meat lovers go into orbit at this no-frills mesquite grill, where steaks, pork chops, and chicken coexist chummily with barbecue, grilled fish, and Mexican specialties. We chose the quesadillas, which were light on cheese and accompanied by guacamole made from top-grade avocados. Beer & wine. 2412 Bay Area Blvd (281-488-8203). Open Sun–Thur 10:30–9, Fri & Sat 10:30–10. $ [map] +

 Update  STINGAREE The attraction has always been the view of the Intracoastal Waterway and the bay beyond, but our most recent visit demonstrated the kitchen’s prowess. It all began with the Oyster Jubilee—a cup of oyster gumbo, half a dozen on the half shell, and six prepared à la Rockefeller, Bienville, and Jose (Monterey Jack with pico de gallo). Then a platter arrived brimming with more: deep fried, charcoal broiled en brochette, and pan fried. Even the straightforward sides of coleslaw, green beans, and red beans and rice were above par. Bar. 1295 Stingaree Rd, Crystal Beach (409-684-2731). Open Sun, Wed & Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10. Closed Mon & Tue. $$ [map]

 Update  SUNFLOWER BAKERY AND CAFE Cookies, brownies, and individual Key lime tarts lure us here whenever we want to impress guests with delightful (and generously sized) desserts, while the cheerful yellow walls, pleasant cov-ered patio, and warm service make this a favorite spot for a meal as well. Daily specials, such as lingcod, a flaky white fish, in a lemon-caper sauce, get downright ambitious. Beer & wine. 512 14th (409-763-5500). Open Mon 7 a.m.–5 p.m., Tue–Fri 7–9, Sat 8–9, Sun 8–3. $-$$ [map] +

 New  TAQUERIA JUAREZ The charmingly quirky bas-relief facade of Indians and palm trees draws newcomers to this UTMB-area family-run breakfast and lunch spot. Well-seasoned takes on Tex-Mex classics keep them coming back. We savored succulent shredded-chicken soft tacos with coarsely mashed guacamole and were equally impressed with tender pechuga de pollo—chicken breast to us gringos. 1424 Strand (409-762-0019). Open Wed–Mon 6:30-2. Closed Tue. $ [map] +

 Update  THAI SEAFOOD Despite the name, there’s more than fish and shrimp at this congenial, nicely turned out spot. Our party of six started with toothsome pork, beef, and chicken satay and proceeded to sprightly chicken basil, soulful steamed fish with ginger, and satisfyingly complex pad woon sen with shrimp. Coconut ice cream with fried bananas brought the meal to a sweet close. Beer & wine. 17926 Texas Hwy 3 at NASA Road One, Webster (281-338-8712). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10, Fri & Sat 5:30–11. Open Sun 11:30–9:30. Closed Mon. $$ [map] +

 Update  TOMMY’S With its entrance flanked by trees wrapped in lights, this NASA neighborhood steak and seafood house exudes conviviality. Our companion ordered the grilled chicken salad, with slices of cantaloupe and watermelon adding upbeat color to the crisp greens. Our own trout amandine proved delectably delicate, and the miniature sides of fresh corn, sautéed spinach, mashed sweet potatoes, and fingerling potatoes provided perfect balance. Bar. 2555 Bay Area Blvd, Clear Lake City (281-480-2221). Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 5–10:30. Closed Sun. $$–$$$ [map] +

 Update  WAEL'S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE Inside this strip center storefront, chefs prepare classic dishes of various Near Eastern cuisines in full view of the patrons dining at linen-covered tables. Thanks to an exotically flavored spice-and-vinegar marinade, the grilled chicken breast and the beef shawarma were succulent without being greasy. The oversized vegetable sampler entrée (creamy hummus, smoky baba ganouj, tart tabouleh, tender stuffed grape leaves, falafel, and spanakopita) would easily satisfy four as an appetizer. Beer & wine. 2449 Bay Area Blvd (281-286-1110). Open Mon–Sat 11–10, Sun 11–8. $ [map] +

 Update  THE WATERMAN Though weekending Houstonians flock to this bayside fave more for the sunsets than the food, the Waterman is one of the best fish houses on the island. We fell happily silent over shrimp sautéed in tequila-spiked butter while friends debated over which snapper preparation reigned supreme: the classic amandine, with toasted nuts in a light butter sauce, or the Southwestern, with a crisp crushed-tortilla crust. It’s also a perfect place to meet old friends, or make new ones, over a drink. Bar. 14302 Stewart Rd (409-632-0203). Open Tue–Thur 4–9, Fri 4–10, Sat 10–10, Sun 10-9. Closed Mon. $$-$$$ [map] +

 Update  Y'A BON VILLAGE COFFEEHOUSE Sunshine-yellow walls trimmed in palm green and an equally sunny ambience transport us to the Caribbean at this harbinger of neighborhood revitalization. The Jamaican patties, beef or curried chicken in a golden-brown pastry crust, were flaky and well seasoned. On another visit, we followed the virtuous Bikini Salad (crisp vegetables, baby greens, turkey, boiled egg) with a slice of transcendent spice cake. Jamaican soft drinks and fortified smoothies supplemented the mellow coffee offerings. 2828 Church (409-763-6580). Open Mon–Fri 7:30–6, Sat 8:30–2. Closed Sun. Cash only. $ [map]

Rockport

TONY LEGNER’S CULINARY PRODUCTIONS Word-of-mouth led us to this friendly hole in the wall, a ten-table gem run by Italian chef Tony Legner. Our Caesar was only adequate, but the crab Louis BLT offered a notable blend of flavors. Our friend savored every bite of her fresh lump crab cake served with habanero-tomato tartar sauce. BYOB. 1003 E. Concho (361-729-6395). Open Wed–Sat 11–3 & 5–8:30. Sun brunch 11–2. Reservations recommended evenings and Sun brunch. Cash & checks only. Cash Only. $$-$$$ [map]

South Padre Island

DORADO’S BAJA BAR AND GRILL Fusing the Caribbean and Baja California, Dorado’s hot wings with a secret Baja sauce got the reggaeton beat going for us. We then proceeded to devour fish tacos filled with mahimahi, cabbage, and mango salsa. The Marley wrap with chicken, Jamaican-style rice, beans, and grilled pineapple had us singing “Is This Love?” Bar. 5001 Padre Blvd (956-772-1930). Open 7 days 11–11. $ [map] +

 New  FISHBONES PIER AND GRILL Because it’s located on a pier, every table has an excellent view of the Laguna Madre Bay. The folks here will cook your catch, but for those whose fishing abilities are lacking, there are platters of shrimp, oysters, flounder, and more, all served grilled, blackened, or fried. Quantities are so large you’ll hardly touch the sides. This restaurant is easy to miss; look for it in the KOA campground. Bar. 1 Padre Blvd (956-761-4665). Open 7 days 7–10. $-$$ [map] +