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Restaurant Reviews from the Big Bend region

Listings 1-16 of 16. The most recent review is listed for each restaurant.

1) CANDELILLA CAFé [City: Lajitas, Cuisine: Tex-Mex and Southwestern]
This review from August 2008. Now Lajitas Resort’s only restaurant, the cafe offers affordable prices and a decidedly casual atmosphere. While pork loin with chutney and sautéed vegetables would have been right at home in the now-shuttered Ocotillo, the ribs had clearly never tasted smoke and came with a generic barbecue sauce. Our meal was bookended by guacamole that was simple and rich and an even richer “cowboy cookie”: a warm chocolate chip cookie served in a small skillet and topped with ice cream. Bar (opens at 4). Lajitas Resort, FM 170 (432-424-5030). Open Mon 7–2:30 & 5–10, Tue–Thur 7–3:30 & 5–10, Fri–Sun 7–10. $$ [web site] [map] +

2) CHISOS MOUNTAINS LODGE [City: Big Bend National Park, Cuisine: American]
This review from May 2008. Chisos Mountains Lodge Truth be told, the view across the Basin to the desert beyond is the allure. Fortunately, the food is appealing too—colorful Mexican dishes, huge burgers, and an amazing blackened-salmon house salad. The fish is seriously charred on the outside, yet the interior is a wonder of meltingly delicious moistness. Setting it off are black olives and cherry tomatoes. The Parmesan around the plate’s rim is a nice play for attention but no match for Mother Nature. Beer & wine. Chisos Basin Rural Station (432-477-2291). Open 7 days: breakfast 7–10, lunch 11–4, dinner 5–9. $ [web site] +

3) CONCHITA’S [City: Marfa, Cuisine: Mexican]
This review from October 2007. Before Marfa became an international art destination, local restaurants must have been like this: a tiny, linoleum-floored dining room dispensing made-from-scratch Mexican food, burgers, and amazing onion rings. Our lightly battered chiles rellenos arrived with terrific refritos and Spanish rice. 300 W. San Antonio, U.S. 90W (432-729-4875). Breakfast and lunch Wed–Mon 7–2. Dinner Wed–Sat & Mon 5–8. Closed Tue. $ [map] +

4) EDELWEISS BREWERY [City: Alpine, Cuisine: Continental]
This review from August 2008. Of the four house brews on tap, the dark lager goes great with the peppery grilled pork chop. You’ll find plenty more to match up with the other beers, from pretzels and buffalo wings to burgers and Wiener schnitzel. Only the small, sad salad bar is disappointing. Beer & wine. Holland Hotel, 209 W. Holland (432-837-9454). Open Mon–Fri 11–10, Sat & Sun 7 a.m.–10 p.m. $-$$ [web site] [map] +

5) FOOD SHARK [City: Marfa, Cuisine: Mediterranean]
This review from August 2008. Run this business plan past an MBA: a “kitchenized” 1974 delivery van parked next to the railroad tracks in West Texas and serving Mediterranean fare. Cockamamy? No way. The top seller is Marfalafel, the Shark’s take on fried balls of spiced chickpeas garnished with salad and tahini. On our visits we toggle between the hummus and veggie wrap and the crunchy, cool fattoush salad. Specials may include interesting sandwiches and creative fusions of Mediterranean and Mexican. Highland Ave at railroad tracks (432-386-6540). Open Tue–Fri 11:30–3. Closed Sat–Mon. Cash Only. $ [web site] [map] +

6) LA TRATTORIA [City: Alpine, Cuisine: Italian]
This review from January 2008. Staff and customers seem to be settling into the new, larger digs of this favorite eatery. Offerings now include a lunch buffet and pizza night, and they still have the best coffee in town. Pastas and panini beckon at lunch, as do the excellent salads—try the ensalata mista, with tomatoes, artichokes, and that magical combination of kalamata olives and Fontina cheese. One caveat: It might be best to sit with your back to the frenetically billowing red curtains that screen the new kitchen. Beer & wine. 901 E. Holland (432-837-2200). Breakfast Mon–Sat 8–10:30. Lunch buffet Mon–Fri noon–2. Dinner Tue, Fri, & Sat 6–10. Closed Sun. $ [web site] [map]

7) LONG DRAW PIZZA [City: Terlingua, Cuisine: Pizza]
This review from April 2007. Most people take pizza for granted, but out here it’s a treat to find pies of any kind, let alone as good as Long Draw’s. We staked our claim to a few feet of picnic table and ordered draft beers and a couple of pizzas—the Six-Shooter (sausage, onions, peppers, cheese) and Grumpy Ed’s Special (salty prosciutto, chicken chunks, and lots of blue cheese). We left sated and happy. Beer & wine. Hwy 170, 6.6 miles west of intersection with Texas Hwy 118 (432-371-2608). Dinner Wed-Sun 5-9. Closed Mon & Tue. Cash Only. $$ [map]

8) LOS PAISANOS [City: Terlingua, Cuisine: Mexican]
This review from November 2007. The table just wasn’t big enough to hold it all—a basket of warm chips, a mini-molcajete of salsa, and two huge plates for the chalupa and taco eaters. What really pushed the envelope was the sizzling platter of chicken fajitas, with marinated strips of white meat resting atop an amazing mélange of grilled onions and peppers. BYOB. FM 170 (432-371-2101). Open Mon–Sat 11–9. Closed Sun. $ [map]

9) MAIYA’S [City: Marfa, Cuisine: American]
This review from May 2008. Maiya’s Like crowded big-city bistros, Maiya’s often rings with happy chatter. But the cafe was quiet this weeknight, with an unhurried kitchen that delivered our best Maiya’s meal in recent memory. Grilled perfectly and spiced simply, the juicy ribeye and ample mound of mashed potatoes were superlative. Rustic-style roasted chicken paired well with the chunky butternut squash and potato medley. Bar. 103 N. Highland (432-729-4410). Dinner Wed–Sat 5–9:30. Closed Sun–Tue. $$$ [web site] [map] +

10) MURPHY’S PIZZERIA AND CAFE [City: Fort Davis, Cuisine: Pizza and American]
This review from April 2007. All around this laid-back cafe folks were chowing down on pizzas, but our table opted for meatball sandwiches and spinach salad with raspberry vinaigrette. The long bun quickly soaked up juices from well-seasoned meat, marinara sauce, cheese, and grilled onions and peppers. Texas Hwys 17 & 118 (432-426-2020). Open Mon-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. $ [map]

11) OCOTILLO [City: Lajitas, Cuisine: American]
This review from July 2007. In the stylishly rustic room, we salivated over the hot and crunchy trio of seafood and avocado appetizers. Buffalo filet arrived rarer than requested but amazingly tender. But what took our breath away was dessert: two espresso cups filled with different flavors of crème brûlée. Bar (opens at 5). FM 170, Lajitas Ultimate Hideout (432-424-5035). Dinner Tue–Sat 6–9. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. $$$$ [web site] [map] +

12) PHAT CAFE [City: Terlingua, Cuisine: Asian]
This review from July 2008. The soothing atmosphere of a Himalayan guesthouse will put you in the mood for an exotic meal. But be prepared to have your taste buds, and expectations of Asian food, challenged. Fresh ingredients, herbs, and spices are deliciously combined in kaleidoscopic ways, all counterbalanced with delicate broths and steamed rice. Bring an open mind, an empty stomach, and the alcoholic beverage of your choice. We can’t wait to see what the Phat whips up next. From Texas Hwy 118 go west on FM 170 for a mile; at sign, turn left onto a dirt driveway (432-371-2520). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–2. Dinner Tue–Sat at 7 (reservations required). Closed Sun & Mon. $$$ [map]

13) REATA [City: Alpine, Cuisine: Southwestern and Mexican]
This review from August 2008. It is as true for us as it was for Julia Child: There is not much that butter and cream won’t make delectable. Case in point: chicken breast stuffed with spinach, prosciutto, and red peppers in a rich cream sauce, served with crunchy-fresh snap peas. Our only quibble was the whole black peppercorns; they don’t reward chewing. The Western theme extends from the servers’ piped shirts to animal skulls and ranching tools. Bar (with membership). 203 N. 5th (432-837-9232). Open Tue–Sun 11:30–2 & 5–9. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$ [web site] [map] +

14) RIO BRAVO [City: Terlingua, Cuisine: American and Mexican]
This review from May 2008. Rio Bravo Ladies rule at the former Paisanas, and an indeterminate number of them cook, take orders, operate the register, and minister to small children. The Mexican food gets equal billing with burgers and fried fare; don’t miss the picadillo or the chalupas, served in tiny tortilla cups. Approach the table salsa with caution: It’s delish but painful in large amounts. BYOB. FM 170, one mile west of the intersection with FM 118 (432-371-2101). Open Mon–Sat 11–3 & 5–9. Closed Sun. $ +

15) STARLIGHT THEATRE [City: Terlingua, Cuisine: Southwestern and American]
This review from April 2008. Be here on Monday nights, when hamburgers are two-for-one. Most of the locals gravitate to this adobe-walled bar and restaurant for the bargain, though the burgers are not, perhaps, the most flavorful we’ve ever had. One spendthrift in our group opted for the grilled margarita chicken with beans, rice, and tortillas. The plump breast meat won’t give you a buzz, but your taste buds will get a high from the wonderfully moist meat and citrusy taste. Bar. From Texas Hwy 118 go west on FM 170 for 5 miles and follow signs to Terlingua (432-371-2326). Dinner 7 days 5–9:30. $$ [web site] [map] +

16) TEXAS FUSION [City: Alpine, Cuisine: Mexican and Barbecue]
This review from January 2008. Seems like this is what Alpine has been waiting for, given the opening of a second dining room to accommodate the lunchtime burger and burrito crowd. Although our Mexican plate was so garish it looked unreal—pumpkin-colored rice, flaming red chile sauce over cheese enchiladas, yellow cheese on beef tacos—the flavors were pure Texas comfort food. Thankfully, the table salsa is less likely than before to scald your tongue. 200 W. Murphy (432-837-1215). Open Mon–Fri 11–8, Sat 11–3. Closed Sun. $ [map]

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