(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.

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(From April 2008) Usually packed for breakfast and lunch, this cafeteria-style restaurant located near the University of Texas–Pan American campus is the go-to place for good, inexpensive Mexican food. The staff is extremely friendly, and the tacos and spicy salsa are unmatched.

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(From April 2008) In a city flooded with great Mexican food, the Laurenzo empire thrives. Note its latest addition in Montrose, where rustic Spanish-style interiors create an inviting space for casual meals and happy hours. Served with warm tortillas and pico, the carnitas, slow-roasted morsels of pork, were fork-tender and full of flavor. Muy delicioso too was the shrimp-and-cheese-stuffed fried avocado. As usual, the margaritas are dangerously good. Bar.

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(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From September 2008) If you’re looking for comfort food made from scratch, look no further than this grand old building on the square in downtown Waxahachie. An ambitious menu boasts all manner of salads, pastas, seafood, and steaks; we’re partial to the tasty coconut shrimp with mango-raspberry sauce and the tender pepper-crusted sirloin with sides of crunchy onion rings and fresh green beans. Chisholm also serves a hearty breakfast on the weekends (steak and eggs, omelets, pancakes). Bread, pies, and cakes are made daily in the restaurant’s bakery.

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(From May 2009) A new executive chef has spearheaded a menu overhaul at this year-old establishment. Retaining a few favorites, like the seared foie gras (now offered as a tasting size or a full portion), 2900’s new bill of fare includes an excellent crispy duck breast accented with a light, sweet mole and a fall-off-the-bone braised lamb shank. Happily, the restaurant has kept its cool, industrial interior and fantastic wine list. Bar.

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(From March 2008) Plastic chairs and a mod space make diners feel comfortable, but the evening menu is ambitious (lunch is counter-order). A bright citrus dressing finished an arugula salad rounded out by creamy goat cheese and a heap of toasted pepitas, while a starter of braised boar ribs was so large it could have been an escapee from the entrée list. The only problem was that said ribs weren’t entirely tender, and they could have used crisping under the broiler. Main courses of seared duck breast and dense pumpkin ravioli were uneven too. A good pear tart helped balance things out. Beer & wine.

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(From October 2008) An interior makeover has much improved this place. Now cool sage walls set off the black and white photos of past football glories. Hushpuppy-like crab bites and crispy onion rings started us off. We skipped the unremarkable chicken and seafood entrées and ordered our usual—a tender, juicy steak (it shamelessly sported a little rim of fat). Don’t miss the yeasty cheese rolls and signature blueberry muffins. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Café, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it’s worth the effort; it’s hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue’s boutique and can be entered via stairs or elevator in the shop or by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Closed Sun & Mon.

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(From July 2009) New name, same great restaurant. The former Basil Doc’s is now 575 Pizzeria, a self-proclaimed “hot spot for pints and pies.” And it’s not just about the pizza. Munch on the “brick-fired bread” with olive tapenade or the Greek salad, full of olives and artichoke hearts. The Quattro is a white pie with mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and goat cheese. As for red pies, we like the Squillace: pepperoni, sausage, roasted red peppers, and portobellos. Don’t leave without having the cherry bread pudding, made with a croissant and topped with amaretto sauce. Beer & wine.

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