(From June 2008) Notable decor: A wall of vacation photos from patrons who’ve taken bottles of Harold’s sauce to all corners of the globe.
It’s worth standing in line at Harold’s for the oak-smoked offerings behind the counter—including flavorful brisket and a sausage so savory we eschewed the spicy homemade sauce. The sides and desserts (including what was, perhaps, the holy grail of peach cobbler) more than held their own.

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(From December 2009) Open since 1948 (they must be doing something right), Arthur’s has a new location, which is by far the most elegant of them all, with its oil paintings and sparkling chandelier. Start with a bowl of cham-pagne Brie soup or a lump crab cake with mustard remoulade atop crisp jícama. A filet of sole bathed in lemon butter is a fine choice for those who eschew red meat, but if you like it all, the surf and turf will hit the mark. After such luxe courses, peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream seems almost homey—and it’s stellar. Bar.

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(From March 2009) This local favorite boasts a “wide-ranging menu,” one that supplements traditional Thai favorites (pad thai, tom kha) with such offerings as a dim sum sampler with assorted spring rolls and vegetable tempura and fried rice with minced garlic, scallions, and a mild yellow curry. We really liked the citrus roasted duck, with lemon and orange sauce, broccoli, asparagus, and snow peas. Don’t miss the mango cheesecake—it’s the best of the desserts offered. The interior is simple but agreeable, with traditional-looking artwork and an arched effect to the ceiling. Bar.

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(From December 2009) If you get a hankering for something breaded and fried, you could do a lot worse than the chicken-fried chicken here—but come hungry. Our simple, less-than-$10 lunch included a delightful chicken breast (pounded slightly) accompanied by subtle but perfect gravy, enough light, ungreasy fries to have staved off the Irish famine, a side of green beans, chips and salsa, and a trip to the salad bar.

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(From September 2009) These may be the only waiters wearing long white aprons in Alpine, and it’s a treat to see them approach bearing baskets of herb bread and bountiful bowls of pasta. The ambience at dinner differs markedly from that of the morning, when laid-back customers enjoy coffee and burritos while checking their e-mail. As the sun sets over the mountains, you can enjoy the likes of spaghetti bolognese or creamy fettuccine Alfredo. Wine. 901 E. Holland (432-837-2200).

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(From January 2009) Beef is what’s for dinner out here. Chicken-fried steaks are perfectly seasoned (not too peppery), their crust the precise combination of flaky and crispy. We’re fond of the greasy-but-not-too-greasy hamburgers too. And, oh yes, the kitchen knows how to fry spuds.

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(From December 2009) Will wonders never cease? After who knows how many years with not much more than franchise pizza in Alpine, along comes a place rolling out thin-crusted, New York–style pies with aplomb. There are also a number of robustly seasoned pasta dishes to choose from. Here’s hoping Primo’s serves long and prospers!

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(From August 2009) As everyone passed around samples from their plates, we were all thinking, “What a wonderful meal this would make!” Imagine just a bite (or several) of the richly marbled ribeye, a few nibbles of grilled asparagus, a forkful of the divine grilled salmon with horseradish dill sauce, and best of the best, a heaping spoonful of the decadent jalapeño-cheddar grits. We have a humble suggestion: Introduce a tasting menu! Bar (with membership).

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(From December 2009) Refreshingly liberated from Tex-Mex and New Mex–Mex, Talgar’s credibly replicates cafe fare from northern Mexico in the unlikely locale of Alpine’s modest but hopeful Murphy Street historical district. The distinct flavor notes of the sopa azteca—a clear broth with tortilla strips, chicken, avocado, and chipotle—please individually and as an ensemble. Nopalitos and queso fresco complement a romaine salad, and the tender, meaty ranchero steak seems inspired by the fare of Chihuahua’s ubiquitous steakhouses. Though touted as the house specialty, the fish tacos tasted stale and oily, an unfortunate letdown.

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(From October 2009) If there were a quintessential quirky Texas cafe, it might look and taste like this, with shout-outs to the native cooking traditions—Tex-Mex, barbecue, chicken-fried steak, burger—all done extremely well. We especially like the guacamole and the chiles rellenos. Really, how can you resist a place where cutouts of green John Deere tractors and Kokopelli dancers hang side by side on the wall?

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