(From July 2008) There’s nothing quite like the authentic food and icy cervezas served from the trailers and stalls that line the streets of Mexico City, but we played a good game of pretend at this Southwest Freeway storefront. Its taco-stand facade set the mood for our small flour-tortilla tacos—one each of fajita, spicy chipotle brisket, and chicken mole. The chipotle mix (tinga) also starred in miniature masa “pies” (sopes), along with black beans, onions, and cheese. Tres leches cake rounded out a satisfying, if imaginary, trip south. Beer & margaritas.

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(From May 2009) A quiet meal in a plush room with rich red accents and lovely contemporary crystal chandeliers makes for a special night out—with prices to match. But a humble dish done well is a joy, like the moist roasted chicken with chanterelles and brioche-thickened chicken jus; it’s served with brussels sprouts and a side of crusty mac and cheese. And don’t let us forget to mention a kabocha squash soup with a bit of brown butter and sage and meaty pan-seared crab cake with a blood-orange-and-fennel sabayon. This is a place that shows Houston to good advantage. Bar.

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(From September 2008) If you’re looking for comfort food made from scratch, look no further than this grand old building on the square in downtown Waxahachie. An ambitious menu boasts all manner of salads, pastas, seafood, and steaks; we’re partial to the tasty coconut shrimp with mango-raspberry sauce and the tender pepper-crusted sirloin with sides of crunchy onion rings and fresh green beans. Chisholm also serves a hearty breakfast on the weekends (steak and eggs, omelets, pancakes). Bread, pies, and cakes are made daily in the restaurant’s bakery.

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(From December 2009) Lest you suspect the name comes from its cozy Alamo Heights location (zip 78209), check the mural: 29 is Napa Valley’s main road, and this wine bar/bistro makes the most of the theme. Our salad was studded with fresh cherries, pepitas, cubes of Swiss, and tender chicken dressed in a tasty sherry vinaigrette. Even better was the duck breast confit, with a fall-off-the-bone leg and thigh, perfectly paired with smoky bacon-flavored green lentils. Lots of gourmet pizzas too (black fig and goat cheese, for one). Beer & wine.

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(From May 2009) A new executive chef has spearheaded a menu overhaul at this year-old establishment. Retaining a few favorites, like the seared foie gras (now offered as a tasting size or a full portion), 2900’s new bill of fare includes an excellent crispy duck breast accented with a light, sweet mole and a fall-off-the-bone braised lamb shank. Happily, the restaurant has kept its cool, industrial interior and fantastic wine list. Bar.

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(From October 2008) An interior makeover has much improved this place. Now cool sage walls set off the black and white photos of past football glories. Hushpuppy-like crab bites and crispy onion rings started us off. We skipped the unremarkable chicken and seafood entrées and ordered our usual—a tender, juicy steak (it shamelessly sported a little rim of fat). Don’t miss the yeasty cheese rolls and signature blueberry muffins. Bar.

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(From April 2009) Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Café, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it’s worth the effort; it’s hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue’s boutique and can be entered via stairs or elevator in the shop or by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue–Sat 11–3. Closed Sun & Mon.

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(From July 2009) New name, same great restaurant. The former Basil Doc’s is now 575 Pizzeria, a self-proclaimed “hot spot for pints and pies.” And it’s not just about the pizza. Munch on the “brick-fired bread” with olive tapenade or the Greek salad, full of olives and artichoke hearts. The Quattro is a white pie with mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and goat cheese. As for red pies, we like the Squillace: pepperoni, sausage, roasted red peppers, and portobellos. Don’t leave without having the cherry bread pudding, made with a croissant and topped with amaretto sauce. Beer & wine.

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(From April 2009) A recent renovation has resulted in a quieter and warmer dining space off the lobby of the Ashton Hotel, and chef Ismael Rojas has designed the menu with Southwestern palates in mind. The Tlalpan Salad (named for a district in Mexico City) featured assorted greens, toasted pistachios, and sliced cucumber tossed in a chipotle vinaigrette, while the grilled fourteen-ounce ribeye came with whipped Yukon potatoes, baby carrots, a poblano with corn sauce, and a topping of fried onions. The experienced and knowledgeable servers are a real asset. Bar.

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(From January 2009) What keeps Cushing, a brief distraction on the drive from Jacksonville to Nacogdoches, alive and kicking? The 7th Street Restaurant may be partly responsible. Located in a row of mostly abandoned century-old storefronts in Cushing’s former business district, the locally famous chow parlor puts out the basics with flair. The chicken-fried steak is a must, and under no circumstances may you pass up the creamy, East Texas—style potatoes, mashed with the peels on. Leave room for homemade pie and time to study the impressive wall of license plates, which appears to represent all fifty states (and a number of foreign countries).

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