Here’s a game to play while snacking on edamame and perusing the menu at Kenichi: How many shades of black—not counting the patrons’ clothing—can you spot at this sleek new sushi bar in downtown Austin? Although the look, by architect Dick Clark and designer Tonya Noble, is the essence of cool, the pan-Asian restaurant (an offshoot of the Kenichi in Aspen) is in fact warmly welcoming. “How’s your meal, hon?” asked the hostess, a stylish sprite who looked like an extra in Sex and the City. But enough about the peripherals. How’s the food? Actually, it’s great. Sushi chef Kenichi Kanada’s raw fish is impeccable, and the entrées are impressive (I adored my fat little tea-smoked quail on risotto in orange-miso sauce). And where else in town can you find gingered crème brûlée?