’S WONDERFUL, ‘S MARFALOUS Until this year, folks who found themselves in Marfa at mealtime had a choice of tacos or tacos (oh, wait—you could also get a burger). This summer, the options increased exponentially, which is to say that there is now a fine-dining option in this Big Bend-area town of 2,525. Maiya’s is a stunner, with an urbane look that has utterly transformed the downstairs of the 1931 Brite Building. Sage-green accents subtly brighten the walls, and sconces and sleek ceiling fixtures reflect the building’s art deco heritage. The young husband-and-wife team of Maiya Keck and Joey Benton, eight-year residents of Marfa, opened the place in April as the fulfillment of a dream. Keck, who is the chef, brings her love of Mediterranean-influenced cooking to simple, rustic dishes like Italian sausage roasted with onions and grapes. Her baked chicken in a savory Italian agro-dolce sauce plays off the sweet and sour flavors of raisins and balsamic vinegar. Crème brûlée brings a French element to the mix. Despite their well-documented suspicion of anything newfangled, Marfans have embraced the restaurant wholeheartedly. And as for travelers who happen upon it, they’re as tickled as they are astonished.
