Restaurant Insignia

San Antonio Jason Dady, currently the golden boy of the San Antonio restaurant scene, has become the latest to test the waters at the Fairmount. With an emphasis on the Americas, the menu roams from north to south, with appetizers such as creamy duck confit croquettes. Striped bass, with a satisfyingly crisp skin, rested on a bed of potatoes, olives, and artichokes, while the potato salad under the tasty salmon turned out to be a hot, not cold, one. A dauntingly rich Key lime parfait was generous even when split two ways, though it needed an additional squirt or two of lime to jazz it up a bit. On nights with relatively few customers, seating is not in the big, contemporary dining room but in the bar, which is a perfectly pleasant space, although noisy enough to preclude quiet conversation. Bar. Fairmount Hotel, 401 S. Alamo (210-223-0401). Open Sun—Thur 11—10, Fri & Sat 11—11. $$—$$$ W

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek

Dallas It looks like the Mansion has a winner with recently installed chef Bruno Davaillon. We could not resist trying two dishes he brought with him from his tenure at Alain Ducasse’s Mix, in Las Vegas. The first involved four lovingly cooked shrimp resting atop a delicate sliver of horseradish panna cotta that had been adorned with a spicy tomato syrup and a small garnish of greens; rather than dominate the dish, the horseradish added just the right zesty note. We then forged onward to roasted veal tournedos embellished with one jaunty crisp sweetbread; a little side of fig chutney added sparkle. The room is luxuriously elegant, even though it’s considerably less formal than it was before a remodel two years ago, and the service is amazing. Bar. Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd (214-559-2100). Breakfast Mon—Fri 6:30—10:30, Sat & Sun 7—11. Lunch 7 days 11:30—2. Dinner Mon—Thur 6—10, Fri & Sat 6—11, Sun 6—9:30. Reservations recommended. $$$$ W+