When the Oceanaire Seafood Room steamed into port in Dallas last November, I felt like standing on the dock and waving hello—the only things missing were a sea breeze, paper streamers, and a brass band. Although the place is the third national location of a high-end Minneapolis chain, Texas seafood lovers aren’t holding that against it. They’ve been pouring in to check out the catch, and finding a lot to like (and a lot to eat).

My salad of sliced tomato and red onion came with an Everest of Roquefort crumbles, a pitcher of blue cheese dressing, and cruets of oil and vinegar. An entrée of rare ahi tuna proved to be a gargantuan ruby-red slab that would have stocked a sushi bar, thoughtfully served with twin hillocks of wasabi and pickled ginger. (Was it good? It was perfect.) And so it went with the bigger-is-better routine: sumo-size shrimp in the seafood cocktail, a bounty of raw oysters from around the world at the seafood bar, a slice of Key lime pie the size of a first-class cabin. Eat at Oceanaire and, to paraphrase Scarlett O’Hara, you’ll never be hungry again.