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On the Road

By May 2003Comments

PLAINS AND FANCY You have to admire any chef in the vastness of rural Texas who decides to buck the menu monoliths of barbecue and chicken-fried steak. But that’s exactly what chef-owners Randy Allred and Edward Harvey are doing at Randy’s of Wildorado, their restaurant on Interstate 40 some fifteen miles west of Amarillo. At lunch they offer homey, crowd-pleasing food to the good people of Wildorado, a don’t-blink-or-you’ll-miss-it community of two hundred. But at dinner, the candies come out in the understated dining room with its quirky art-work (heavily into rabbits) and the menu goes into high gear. Back in the kitchen, the two are whipping up entrées that run the gamut from golden-brown fried baby lobster tails crusted with coconut to crunchy cheese-and-shrimp-stuffed chiles rellenos in jalapeño lobster sauce. Even side dishes get the royal treatment-portobello fries with ponzo sauce, for instance. And though pecan pie may not be the world’s most sophisticated dessert, Randy’s version is state of the art.

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