Brandishing its tongue-in-chic Western style—cowboy hats are displayed like fine art—Star Canyon has hit Austin with a resounding bang. Diners there are embracing the food and the mood as wholeheartedly as those in Dallas and Las Vegas, particularly flashier dishes such as the Texas-size Cowboy Ribeye and the hot-pink prickly-pear margaritas. But glitz is only part of the picture. Offerings like marinated pecan-smoked pork tenderloin with a honey-chipotle jus prove that chef Paul Clark can do the multi-ingredient do-si-do with the best of them.
