Most days, executive chef Charles Clark thinks small—he’s made quite a name for downtown Houston restaurant Tasca with the Spanish snacks known as tapas. But when the occasion demands, he thinks big, as in this hearty, cold-weather dish of beautifully braised lamb shank and leg of rabbit. Rather than being redundant, the two meats complement each other, the richness of the lamb balancing the austerity of the rabbit. With their leg bones architecturally arranged over a mound of creamy mashed potatoes, the well-matched meats make a dish that will see you through any Texas norther, blue or otherwise. Tasca Kitchen & Wine Bar, 908 Congress St., Houston. Phone: (713) 225-9100

Try this recipe for Tasca’s Braised Lamb Shank and Rabbit With Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes