Chef Kent Rathbun, who presides over the Asian-oriented kitchen of Dallas hot spot Abacus (4511 McKinney Avenue), has a reputation for stylish, baroque combinations. But he can also do simple, as in this deliciously uncomplicated stir-fry of squid (the critters are scored to resemble pasta, but the dish is, in fact, pasta free). With crisp Chinese long beans, asparagus, shiitake mushrooms, bell peppers, and a sprinkling of shallots in oyster sauce, it’s impressive enough for company but so easy you could make it for yourself on a solo evening at home.

Try this recipe for Stir-Fried Squid Pasta from Abacus, Dallas.