“Brunch isn’t just eggs Benedict anymore,” says Matthew Antonvich, chef-owner of Dallas’ Sipango (4513 Travis), as he whips up a batch of frothy scrambled egg whites studded with morsels of pink smoked salmon and handsomely accessorized with oven-roasted potatoes and caramelized onions. “Five years ago,” says Antonovich, “nobody would have touched this. Now everybody says, ‘Hey—a healthy egg dish!’ ” The creation and others in the same vein make up Sipango’s trademark Cal-Ital menu, a combination of lush Italian cooking and slinky California spa cuisine. This hearty hybrid blends the best of both styles.
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