York Street had me at hello. The minute my friend and I sat down, a waitress appeared bearing complimentary glasses of fino sherry and small bowls of almonds and herbed olives. In chef-owner Sharon Hage’s Dallas domain, “attention to detail” is the byword. The dining room sparkles in crisp grays and whites. The kitchen surprises with unusual, carefully crafted dishes. My friend’s bouchot mussels came in a garlicky broth enriched with chouriço, a Portuguese sausage. Fingerling potatoes accompanied an organic beef filet that was as lean and tender a steak as I’ve ever had. (Shown above: a peppered tenderloin with heirloom tomatoes and avocado.) At the end of our meal, the waitress delivered a tray with nine different loose teas in small bowls to inspect and sniff. I couldn’t resist Whispering Heaven—a blend of Ceylon black tea and mallow petals with a hint of citrus. York Street got me at good-bye too.
From the February 2002 Issue Subscribe