Innuendo is definitely on the menu at the Strip House, a New York import that is Houston’s latest purveyor of prime beef. The red flocked wallpaper evokes a classy bordello, languorous French burlesque dancers gaze from vintage photos, and at least once a night, the sound system can be counted on to play “Whatever Lola Wants.” The genius of the concept is its, ahem, cross-gender appeal: Women like it as much as men—at least that was the conclusion of my two female friends and I as we dipped into lobster bisque (mild and creamy, just the way I like it) and devoured slices of a perfectly pink filet mignon, a succulent pork porterhouse, and a lovely hunk of red snapper atop artichoke hearts. In the spirit of the evening, we decided that the restaurant’s insanely rich goose-fat-crisped potatoes were an indulgence we would just have to atone for later.
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