The only fish you can’t eat at Pesce are the sensuous subjects of the still lifes on the walls and the gaudy tropical inhabitants of the big aquarium by the door.

If you want to occupy the center stage at this smart Houston seafood house (3029 Kirby), grab a perch at the Italian-marble raw bar, where couples dive into dishes like briny oysters on the half shell (varieties change daily) or the stylish mixed-seafood “martini” in a tart kimchi dressing. Patrons ensconced in the curvy booth have the best vantage point for spying on the their fellow diners while enjoying chef Mark Holley’s eclectic entrées, like Thai-style fried flounder and the house-smoked salmon atop tiny potatoes latkes.