Pamela Colloff, Abraham Verghese, and O. Rufus Lovet
Recipe from La Rèserve restaurant, Omni Hotel, Houston1/2 cup cannellini (white kidney beans) 1/2 large onion, minced 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 clove elephant garlic Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1/2 head radicchio, cut in sixths 1/2 loaf country bread, sliced 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Soak beans
Recipe from La Rèserve restaurant, Omni Hotel, HoustonSalad1/2 ounce white vinegar 1/2 lemon 1 head fennel 6 baby artichokes 1/2 pound cipolline (pearl onions optional) 1 pound small red potatoes 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1/4 cup pine nuts 3 red bell peppers 1/2 cup deli olives
Recipe from Randy Evans, Brennan’s of Houston, HoustonPeach Filling3 pounds Texas peaches (about 6 medium peaches), peeled and sliced N-inch thick 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 4 tablespoons sugarIn a mixing bowl, combine peaches, vinegar, and sugar. Marinate for half an hour, stirring occasionally, then drain peaches and strain
Recipe from Timothy Byres, Standard 2706, DallasMarinade for Artichokes and Haricots Verts1 1/2 tablespoons chopped garlic 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (chervil, parsley, basil, and tarragon, or your choice) 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil pinch kosher salt pinch freshly ground black pepperCombine all ingredients and
Recipe from David Bull, Driskill Grill, Driskill Hotel, Austin1 jalapeño, roasted and with stem, skin, and seeds removed 1 poblano, roasted and with stem, skin, and seeds removed 1 pound (4 sticks) butter, cut into small cubes, softened 1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only (reserve a few whole sprigs for
Recipe from Randy Evans, Brennan’s of Houston, Houston1/2 ounce (1 tablespoon) simple syrup 1/2 lime, quartered 1 1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) pomegranate juice, such as POM brand 1 1/2 ounces (3 tablespoons) dark rum sugar (for edge of glass)Make syrup by boiling 1 part water and 2 parts
Recipe from Timothy Byres, Standard 2706, DallasLemongrass Dressing2 stalks lemongrass 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup waterIn a saucepan bring all ingredients to a boil with 1/2 cup water. Strain and refrigerate.Melon Salad1 cantaloupe 1 honeydew melon of approximately same size 2 limes, each cut in
Recipe from Thai Spice, Houston and Austin.Tenderloin Salad1 1/4 to 2 pounds whole beef tenderloin (amount depends on whether using as an appetizer or entrée) 1 large cucumber, peeled and sliced 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick 1/2 medium red onion, peeled and sliced 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
Recipe from John Maxwell, The Mansion at Judges’ Hill, AustinLemon-Cream Dressing1 cup heavy cream 6 tablespoons crème fraîche or 3 tablespoons sour cream 1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice zest of 1 lemon, minced 1/8 teaspoon saltIn a large mixing bowl, stir heavy cream briefly until it froths a bit.
April 30, 1933Born in Abbott. His mother leaves six months later; his father leaves a few years after that. Willie and his older sister, Bobbie, are raised by their grandparents, Daddy and Mama.1939Gets his first guitar, a Sears Stella.1942Lands his first paying job, playing with the John Rejcek Bohemian Polka
The following references were taken from the second edition of Eliot Shapleigh’s “Texas on the Brink.”
How Texas compares with the other 49 states in everything from the percentage of low-income children with health insurance (we’re dead last) to the number of executions (we’re first!).
“I didn’t want this tragedy to get lost among all the daily news stories,” says Univision anchorman Jorge Ramos, referring to the ill-fated attempt to smuggle at least 74 illegal immigrants into Texas two years ago. So, to bring attention to the incident as well as to larger immigration issues,
Although illustrator Steve Brodner did some preliminary research before leaving New York for the colonias of South Texas, he was thoroughly unprepared for what he encountered. “The books I had read were about ten years old, and they focused on the horrific living conditions in the colonias,” he says. “But
If anyone knows about following a dream it’s Jeff Lipsky, who photographed American Idol queen Kelly Clarkson for this month’s cover. “I was a fly-fishing guide and snowboarder in Colorado for eleven years,” he says. “And then one day I decided to move to L.A. and become a photographer. I
Brent Humphreys, Pamela Colloff, and Sarah Bird
Nineteen joints we couldn’t countenance not noting at all.AMARILLO Beans N Things A cozy country cafe plunked down on a busy city street. 806-373-7383BRADY Hard Eight Pit Bar-B-Que Meats are cooked cowboy style directly over hot mesquite coals. 325-597-1936DALLAS Baby Back Shak
Ode To BrisketWhen you’re a food writer, people are always asking about the best meal you’ve ever eaten. I know they’re expecting tales of an unforgettable lunch at Michel Bras or a poetic kaiseki meal in Kyoto or a beluga extravaganza on the banks of the Volga, but what always
The best barbecue in Texas is currently being served at Snow’s BBQ, in Lexington, a small restaurant open only on Saturdays and only from eight in the morning until whenever the meat runs out, usually around noon. Snow’s is remarkable not only for the quality of its meat but
You’ve come for wholeness, for satisfaction deep within your soul. Your searching has brought you here, to the company of fellow pilgrims in the snaking line. Slowly, you advance across the tile floor, past the knotty-pine walls, and up to the inner sanctum: a glass-enclosed chamber where a host of
1 1/2 ounces Cadenhead’s Old Raj Dry Gin 1/2 ounce Paula’s Texas Lemon 1/4 ounce Pagès Parfait Amour Crème de Violette liberal splash of Fever-Tree Bitter Lemon Luxardo maraschino cherries (garnish) lemon peel, long and twisted (garnish) edible orchid (garnish, optional)Combine gin, Paula’s Texas liqueur, and crème de violette over
Recipes from Conservatory at Dallas’ Hotel Crescent Court, Dallas.Tart Shells2 frozen filo sheets (18 by 14 inches) Pam or other vegetable oil spray 4 tart pans (4 inches in diameter) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut each sheet of filo into six 6- by 7-inch pieces. Spray filo with Pam
1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast 1 3/4 cups warm water 1/2 cup active sourdough starter (see recipe, below) 5 scant cups unbleached all-purpose flour or bread flour 1/2 cup powdered milk 2 teaspoons sea salt or plain salt 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
4 1015 onions (any large onion may be substituted) 2 cups chicken stock 4 cups bread crumbs 1 cup coarse cracker meal 1 cup flour 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons cracked black pepper 1/2 tablespoon cayenne 4 eggs 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 cup milk Canola oil 1/2 cup butter 1
Marinade4 game hens 1 tablespoon achiote seeds 2 cups oil 46 ounces tomato juice 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon granulated garlic 1 tablespoon oregano leaves 1 teaspoon each of dark chile powder, ground cumin, and salt 2 ounces lime juice 4 ounces tequila 1 medium onion, choppedStuffing12 steamed fresh tamales
Basic Dough1/4 cup warm water (about 105 degrees) 2 tablespoons honey 1 package dry yeast 2 cups high-gluten flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 3/4 cup waterIn a cup stir together warm water and honey, and mix in dry yeast. Let stand for ten minutes. Place flour
Blueberry Sauce1 1/2 cups port 1/2 cup sugar juice of 1 lime 8 ounces fresh or frozen blueberriesPlace port, sugar, and lime juice in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Continue to boil for 8 minutes. Stir in blueberries and, if using frozen ones, reheat the sauce (but do
12 shallots, uniform size 6 tablespoons olive oil kosher salt and cracked black pepper to tastePreheat oven to 350 degrees. Peel shallots, leaving on the top end and barely trimming the root end. Lightly sauté in olive oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes.
Fruit Compote1/2 cup sugar 1 cup red wine 2 cinnamon sticks 1 teaspoon orange zest 2 pints fresh or frozen berries of your choiceCombine sugar, wine, cinnamon, and orange zest, bring to a boil, and pour over berries. Refrigerate overnight.Royal Icing2 egg whites 1 pound (3 1/2 to 4 cups)
Chile Salt7 teaspoons ground cayenne 7 teaspoons ground red chile powder 3 teaspoons granulated garlic 2 tablespoons saltMix all ingredients together.Roasted Corn on the Cob6 ears of corn in their husks 3 tablespoons melted butter 1 1/2 teaspoons chile salt (recipe above) juice of 3 limes 3 additional limes, cut
Recipe from Ruth Carter, soups-and-specials cook at Austin’s Eastside Cafe.Dewberry-Orange4 cups dewberries or blackberries, rinsed 2 cups water 1/2 cup sugar 4 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 cups fresh orange juice mint leaves for garnish (optional)Combine berries (reserve a few for garnish) with water in a
Recipe from Lisa Biggerstaff, pastry chef, Dacapo’s on the Parkway, Houston.Mousse9 ounces semisweet chocolate 1 ounces butter, melted 1 pint whipping cream 3 medium eggs 1 1⁄2 teaspoons dark rum 1 tablespoon espresso or strong coffeeMelt chocolate in a double boiler. Melt butter in a pan. Set both aside and
Recipe from Pastry chef Doug Wilson, Mesteña’s, San Antonio.Sorbet1 cup water 1 1/2 cups sugar 8 Braeburn apples, peeled and coredBoil water and sugar for 5 minutes to make a simple syrup. Make fresh apple juice by puréeing apples thoroughly in a food processor and pushing through a fine strainer.
Recipe from chef-owner Lynette Hawkins Mandola, La Mora, Houston.Balsamic Vinaigrette2 tablespoons pancetta (2 or 3 ounces), sliced 1/8-inch thick and then cut into 1/4-inch squares (you may substitute prosciutto) 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 1/2 teaspoon sugar 4 tablespoons olive oil
Recipe from Sambuca, 2618 Elm, Dallas.18 jumbo shrimp 8 ounces fresh goat cheese 1 tablespoon each fresh basil and thyme, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fresh tarragon, finely chopped Dash of lemon juice Salt to taste 1 baguette French bread Virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, mincedBoil, peel, and chill shrimp.
1 head arugula (1/3 pound) 2 heads Belgian endive 1 head radicchio 12 thin slices Parma hamToss lettuces with vinaigrette (see recipe, below). To serve, place 2 slices ham on each plate and top with salad.Sun-Dried-Cherry Vinaigrette2 tablespoons lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon champagne vinegar 1 egg white 1 cup olive
Recipes from Eureka!, 4011 Villanova, Dallas4 whole chicken breasts Juice of 1 lemon 1 1/2 tablespoons lemon zest 1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon minced garlic 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepperMarinate chicken in remaining ingredients for one hour in refrigerator.
Recipe from Eureka!, 4011 Villanova, Dallas2 egg whites Pinch of salt 3/4 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1 1/2 pints fresh mixed strawberries and raspberries Sugar to taste Hazelnut or almond flavoringPreheat oven to 250 degrees. Whip egg whites and salt until stiff. Add sugar slowly, whipping until stiff peaks
Recipe from Eureka!, 4011 Villanova, Dallas8 ears of corn, shucked 2 red bell peppers Juice of 1 lime Juice of 1 1/2 oranges 1/3 cup finely chopped cilantro 1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepperGrill corn and peppers over charcoal
Walnut Sauce1/4 cup walnut pieces 1/2 cup boiling water (or enough to cover) 1/4 cup milk 1 1/2 cups crème fraîche or crema mexicana 1/4 cup cream sherry 2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 ounces queso fresco or mild feta cheesePlace walnuts in a bowl and cover with water.
Skip Hollandsworth on big hair, Gary Cartwright on the Balinese Room, Patricia Sharpe on Fritos, and Pamela Colloff on the bandits of the century.
. . . With Wild Mushrooms and Rutabaga Purée.Recipe from Oloroso, San Antonio.6 slices prosciutto, sliced as thin as possible 8 ounces wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, hedgehogs, or trumpets 4 to 5 baby purple kohlrabi, stems and leaves removed 1 medium rutabaga 2 bay leaves 1 sprig marjoram 4
. . . With Spinach-Speck Salad, Brown Butter, and Pine Nut Crema.Recipe from Bolla, Dallas1/4 cup brown butter 12 sea scallops 2 cups spinach salad 1 cup red-wine vinaigrette (warm) 1 cup pine nut cremaSeared Sea Scallops1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon butter 12 scallops, dry packed, U10, muscle removed
6 egg yolks 5/8 cup sugar 5 ounces Key lime juice Zest of two limes 32 ounces Rich’s Whip Topping (see below) 1 1/2 packets graham crackers, crushed 3 tablespoons crushed toasted walnuts 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 3 tablespoons sugar 7/8 stick butter, meltedHeat egg yolks, 5/8 cup sugar,
Piecrust1 1/2 cups flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup vegetable shortening 3 to 4 tablespoons cold waterIn mixing bowl, combine flour and salt. Mix in shortening with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Sprinkle water over mixture one tablespoon at a time, stirring with fork. Form dough into ball and
AUDREY JONES BECKHouston, $80 millionForty-seven Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings valued at an estimated $80 MILLION to the MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, HOUSTON. The paintings, which include works by Cézanne, Monet, and Renoir, have been on display at the museum since 1974 along with 23 others previously donated by Mrs. Beck
CAFE CENTRAL109 N. Oregon at 1 Texas Court, 915-545-2233. This chic upscale spot is more a continental than a Mexican restaurant, but the Mexican dishes it does have are original and excellent, including wonderfully crisp bacon-wrapped prawns in a chipotle marinade, lovely puntas de filete (sliced tenderloin) in jalapeño
This three-milk cake from Cafe Central in El Paso is sweet and moist.