Not quite as scenic as it sounds, BBQ on the Brazos is located inside a Texaco station just off U.S. 377. Barbecue aficionados have already sniffed the joint out, though—the line was deep at nine o’clock on a weekend morning, with bleary-eyed customers ordering everything from brisket-and-egg tacos on handmade tortillas to Shanghai sandwiches (chopped brisket and sausage on a homemade bun). We were just as happy with our by-the-pound selection, with pleasantly fatty brisket, nicely glazed pork ribs, and spicy jalapeño sausage. The lightly sauced, cilantro-based coleslaw was the crowd favorite of the sides. Don’t skip dessert; you want some homemade pecan cobbler.
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