This joint is all about meat. There is a large cooling case at the entrance where you can choose your own raw steak to be grilled per your specifications. Whether you want steak or bbq, everyone waits in the same line . . . unless you choose to sit and order from the menu. I know, it’s confusing. While admiring the large model planes hanging from the ceiling, we waited in the line and got a look at some nice black brisket. We ordered sliced brisket and ribs, and the brisket was a specimen to behold with a thick rosy smoke line and the aforementioned black crust. The smoky flavor permeated the meat, but it was unfortunately dry. The flavor was also lacking complexity beyond the good smokiness. The ribs had a rub that provided a sweet undertone to the mild smoky flavor. The pork was also a bit dry, but the overall flavor was good.

(This review originally appeared on Full Custom Gospel BBQ.)