Over a year ago a friend of mine, Steve Dean, sent me a photo of this joint. The ramshackle look of the building had an outdated “Bush/Cheney 2004” sign in the front window and a sign on the door read “SHUT”. Steve and I both assumed it was closed for good. Then I was driving from Hearne to Taylor along Highway 79 and saw smoke rising from behind the building. I pulled over to the gravel lot on the right just past Main Street and the sign on the door now read “OPEN”. My traveling companion and I were happy to check it out.
Inside was a counter where owner Joe Hobbs took our order. We sat at one of two long tables in the tiny dining room and gazed at the anti-Obama, anti-gun control, and anti-terrorist (who isn’t?) artwork hanging on the walls. We mulled over adding a raw jalapeño to our order for an extra $0.20, but thought better of it. Joe was back soon enough with our plate of meat since we didn’t have room for sides.
The spare rib was enormous with a crust black as coal. The meat tasted like it had gotten a second dose from the smoker to warm it up, and the meat was dry. It also lacked seasoning, and that was not remedied by a swipe through the overly sweet sauce. A thick slice of brisket was better. It could have used a kick of salt too, but the meat and fat were both tender and the smokiness was more balanced than the rib. A link of ruddy sausage was the best item on the plate. Joe said it was Texas Chaw sausage made in nearby Caldwell. These links had been well smoked with a great snappy casing. The meat within had a nice coarse grind and some heat from red and cracked black pepper. It was juicy and just plain great sausage.
I can’t guarantee it will be open if you stop by on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday since the hours vary. What I can guarantee is that you’ll need cash, you’ll want to leave your Obama/Biden bumper sticker hidden from view, and you need to get some of that sausage.
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