Evie Mae’s shiny new strip-center spot has been open a little more than a year, but visitors from nearby Lubbock don’t seem to miss the food truck (conveniently, the new place is about a quarter mile from the old location). An early arrival meant we not only avoided a wait but also were able to secure one of the coveted beef ribs, massive in size, perfectly tender, and with just the right amount of bark. Ditto for the spectacular burnt ends, which actually bested the somewhat undersalted brisket. Three choices for sausage, including spicy green chile and German, satisfied everyone in our group. We pondered a huge array of sides and desserts as we moved along the cafeteria line, deciding on subtly spicy green-chile cheese grits, tangy smoked beans, and—to seal the deal—creamy coconut pie.
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