Freedmen’s is no stranger to the pages of Texas Monthly.They made our list of the best new and improved barbecue joints in 2015 under the direction of talented former pitmasters Evan LeRoy and Chris McGhee. Now Bradley Robinson has taken the helm at the historic building. We worried that Freedmen’s might try to skate by on the strength of its great cocktails, sides, desserts (smoked banana pudding!), and interior (ancient stone walls, tufted leather upholstery). But in fact, the peppery spareribs are still smoky and the house-made sausage is as juicy as ever. The fatty brisket actually had us giddy. In tribute, we raised a glass of the bourbon-based cocktail they call the Ol’ Schmokey.