Pitmaster Greg Gatlin used to be a defensive back at Rice, which was no doubt good mental training for running a barbecue business. He upgraded his highly successful operation a couple of years ago from a small house to new digs with more than four thousand square feet of space. (One thing that has stayed the same, though, is the presence of Greg’s mom, Mary, greeting everybody at the door on weekends.) The menu too has grown with time. While the brisket is satisfying and smoky, it’s the pork ribs (both baby backs and St. Louis–cut) that are the winners: tender, juicy, and with an excellent rub. As for the fine sausages, it’s hard to choose, but you might try the venison just for the novelty. And do not skip the show-stopping dirty rice—Cajun comfort food at its best.