A backyard warrior during his younger days in Oak Cliff, Kelvin Harris spent his downtime as a maintenance worker in an aircraft mechanic shop studying videos of the state’s barbecue masters on his phone. Eventually he opened his own place. When early critics of his otherwise stellar brisket suggested he’d benefit from cleaner smoke, he started discarding his old coals each morning. Now his brisket ranks with his YouTube mentors’. Our suggestion? He should focus next on the pork ribs, which taste fantastic but can be a tad tough. Other dishes are spot on. A pineapple juice–spiked sauce elevates his pulled pork sandwiches, while a side of pinto beans, finished with fresh tomatoes and scrap beef and pork, is a meal unto itself.