You might find yourself pulling in here after a long stretch on I-35, not expecting much. Michael and Asenette Hernandez’s place sits on the frontage road alongside other restaurants you’ve probably never heard of. But two steps inside the door, you’re hit by a flood of rich meaty aromas and realize you’re one lucky son of a gun. The fluorescent lights and the low ceiling fade from consciousness as you dig in. The brisket has a smoky, rosy ring and dark crust with an almost sweet crackle. The jalapeño-cheese sausage will have you nodding your head as if to say, “Oh, yeah, that’s good.” The sizeable pork ribs may not quite measure up to the other two, but they are still convincing. When your feast is over, sit a spell in the restaurant’s Texas-size backyard, full of vintage delights.
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