The Hill Country west of San Antonio has always been something of a barbecue desert, but that may be changing as former cow towns like Hondo and Sabinal absorb a wave of urban professionals looking to become part-time gentlemen ranchers and weekend bikers. On Saturdays, the back roads are clogged with Harley-Davidson motorcycles carrying oldish men, often with youngish wives or girlfriends. Rare is the roadhouse without a “Bikers Welcome!” banner flying as proudly as Old Glory herself. Such is the case at Heavy’s. Pitmaster Darren “Heavy” Bernal took over the old McBee’s Bar-B-Que, inheriting a small, cozy dining room and adding a couple of Southern Pride rotisseries, which pump out fragrant mesquite smoke. The brisket is perfectly rendered, with a good salt-and-pepper bark. Meaty pork spareribs get the same simple dry-rub treatment. But the star of the show may be the girthy pork-and-beef sausage from Pollok’s in Falls City.