Owners LeAnn Mueller (yes, of the Louie Mueller clan) and Ali Clem have hunkered down at the Aztec Food Park in their fancy new food trailer. Until they move a block east this month, that’s where you’ll find folks lining up for a slow march to brisket and hot-guts glory. Since the departure of smoke shaman John Lewis for South Carolina, a string of young pitmasters, four in the past two years, have kept the oak fires burning, while Francisco “Franky” Saucedo has remained the steady influence. He’s been responsible for the spectacular sausages (order the chipotle version if you see it on the menu) and tender pork ribs. Monster beef ribs also get their rightful share of adulation here, but the buttery flavor of the all-natural beef brisket is as consistent as it comes. Slices of fatty brisket will likely make this place famous in California too, when it expands to Los Angeles later this year.
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