It took the whole family to transform an abandoned laundromat into a barbecue destination. Inside you’re likely to find Pody Campos’s wife, Veronica, or his mother, Margaret Franco, tending the pits. Even his aunt, Erma Soto, helps out sometimes. They need to, because while Campos’s passion is smoking meat, he has another full-time job, as deputy sheriff in Reeves County. By 11 a.m., customers are queueing up for thick-cut brisket, monster spareribs, and signature green-chile hominy. You won’t need sauce, but if you like it tingly, ask for some of the West Texas hot sauce from behind the counter.