A small wood-frame restaurant, open only on Saturdays and only from eight in the morning until whenever the meat runs out, usually around noon, Snow’s is remarkable not only for the quality of its ’cue—“outlandishly tender brisket, fall-apart-delicious chicken”—but for the unlikeliness of its story. The genius behind this meat is a petite, energetic woman named Tootsie Tomanetz, who’s been smoking since 1967, when she ran the pits at City Meat Market, in Giddings. She starts the meat smoking at midnight and wraps the brisket in butcher paper around six or seven. When asked why Snow’s wasn’t open more than one day a week, she said matter-of-factly: “There’s no market for it.”
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