You just feel good after a visit here. The super-friendly counter folks might hand you a bit of sausage or brisket to nibble. Plus, the roomy place, with beer signs and communal tables, is fun for families and groups. If you think you’ve had this style of barbecue before—heavy on the pepper and smoke—you’re right. Like many, pitmaster Lance Kirkpatrick learned his technique in the barbecue belt of Central Texas. Our most lavish praise is reserved for the beef rib (owner Shane Stiles stopped by to say they’d been working on it; tastes like they got it right). The fatty brisket bests the lean, but the pork ribs are reliably meaty, and all three homemade sausages have a nice snap. Fun fact for train buffs: the name “Stiles Switch” comes from a Central Texas stop on the I&GN Railroad in the 1800s.