“Matt’s gone to feed the governor,” Emily Hall told us on our visit. She was referring to Matt Proctor, the founding pitmaster of Stillwater, who’d been summoned to Austin to grill for a cohort of visiting Aussies. But Hall, Proctor’s twenty-year-old apprentice, handled the pit with aplomb. The beef ribs (offered daily) were long gone, but the pork spareribs we ordered were just the right amount of sweet. What set the brisket apart was its subtle smoke, a feature that can be rare in the mesquite-choked prairies of West Texas (though the thick cut did make it a tad tough). We completed the meat trinity with the house-made pork-beef jalapeño sausage, and for a palate cleanser, we wolfed down some pecan cobbler and Stillwater’s legend-in-the-making banana pudding.